SET, KIT, AND SKIN MAKEUP PROCESS

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a process for makeup (p), comprising the step of forming a depot of a cosmetic base composition (1) applied to the skin (1). p), a discontinuous islet (20) of corrective composition (2) and / or a corrective composition deposit comprising visible substances which give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said corrective composition having optical properties that locally modify the appearance of the make-up to create a pattern that reproduces the skin's appearance of relief and / or color heterogeneity.
公开号:BR112014015283B1
申请号:R112014015283-7
申请日:2012-12-21
公开日:2019-09-24
发明作者:Henri Samain；Franck Giron；Guillaume Cassin；Véronique Ferrari
申请人:L`Oreal；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

1/76
SET, KIT, AND SKIN MAKEUP PROCESS [0001] The present invention is concerned with making up the skin.
Fundamentals [0002] The skin is not a smooth, uniformly colored surface, and has reliefs and micro-reliefs, such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, scars and dry areas, which form a relatively uneven surface.
[0003] In addition, its color varies in several scales, with marks or discromias, the differences in color being, at times, relatively small.
[0004] Often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms an entire surface that is pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that, at times, the surface is judged to be unattractive.
[0005] This may derive from some extra reliefs, or from larger disruptions than those generally observed. For example, when the pores are slightly larger than normal, this tends to make the surface unattractive. Likewise, when the dyschromias are wide and / or contrasting.
[0006] This can also stem from the fact that irregularities are poorly distributed. For example, freckles are quite attractive. However, an uneven or asymmetric distribution can make the entire surface quite unattractive.
[0007] Irregularities can also be uneven in size.
[0008] Sometimes, a single irregularity can make the entire surface unattractive. For example, a colored mark on a cheek can diminish the beauty of the face.
[0009] The application of a cosmetic base is the most efficient approach to beautify uneven skin, making it possible to hide marks
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 13/20
2/76 and dyschromias, reduce the visibility of small reliefs, such as pores and wrinkles, and cover spots and traces of acne.
[0010] However, the presence of a cosmetic base can cause the natural appearance of the skin to be lost, particularly when the product used provides wide coverage.
[0011] Cosmetic bases contain cover particles that provide a color. Thus, manufacturers offer these products in various color variants, giving the user the possibility to find the product that best matches him, in particular to choose a shade close to that of his skin.
[0012] Another difficulty related to the use of a cosmetic base is that, through the application of the product, all irregularities are covered, namely, those that are a disorder, but also others that would be good to maintain, which can give an appearance artificial to the skin.
[0013] Formulators tried to solve this problem by producing compositions with less coverage. The transparency of these compositions minimizes the artificial appearance of the skin. However, the user is only partially satisfied with the coverage result.
[0014] It is difficult to distance yourself from this logic of compromise between coverage and transparency.
[0015] One possibility would be to apply the product only to the imperfection, but this potential solution is very limited in the current state, since it applies only to people who have only minor imperfections to cover. Furthermore, it is necessary that these imperfections are small in number, understanding that it is tedious to apply the product to a multitude of small areas.
[0016] Finally, if the product is only applied to one zone, demarcation problems are created. Obtaining natural or invisible joints requires a lot of mastery. So, this solution is not really realistic and therefore most people apply the product all over the face.
3/76 [0017] The solution proposed by FR 2 933 582 is also known, which is aimed at capturing a grain of skin and subsequently reproducing it in keratin materials. However, using the device described in said document can be relatively expensive.
[0018] There is a need to obtain, in a simple way, a makeup effect that makes it possible to obtain coverage of imperfections while giving the makeup skin a preset appearance, especially a natural appearance.
[0019] The invention aims to satisfy this need.
Summary [0020] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a process to make up the skin, preferably facial skin, comprising the step of forming, in a deposit of a cosmetic-based composition applied to the skin, a deposit batch of corrective composition islets and / or a corrective composition deposit comprising visible substances that give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said corrective composition having optical properties that locally modify the appearance of the makeup in order to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance skin relief and / or heterogeneity of colors.
[0021] According to another of its aspects, the present invention refers to a process to make up the skin, comprising the steps consisting of:
The. apply a cosmetic-based composition to the skin, and
B. locally remove and / or move the cosmetic base applied in step a) in order to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin relief and / or heterogeneity of colors.
[0022] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic device with a peripheral surface comprising islets arranged non-uniformly within a surface
4/76 surrounding, said islets each having a larger dimension of at least 0.8 mm and having a shape and / or properties to capture and / or release a product present on the skin or to apply a shape and / or over it or properties different from those of the surrounding surface, in order to lead to the creation in the skin of a pattern whose appearance is linked to the arrangement of the islets on the peripheral surface.
[0023] The invention advantageously makes it possible to recreate, on the makeup surface, a natural or idealized appearance of the skin, despite the presence of the cosmetic base.
[0024] The device advantageously makes it possible to recreate in the skin a natural or idealized appearance of the skin.
[0025] Thus, a makeup, using a cosmetic base that can cover relatively, advantageously looks less artificial after using the device on the makeup surface.
[0026] The invention advantageously makes it possible to create a relatively established makeup that transfers relatively little.
[0027] According to a preferred mode of the invention, the cosmetic-based composition dries quickly, for example, in less than 20 min on the skin, through the use of volatile solvents and / or a high concentration of solids, and / or through the use of film-forming compounds.
[0028] As an example, the cosmetic-based composition and / or the corrective composition will advantageously comprise volatile compounds (hydrocarbon-based solvents, hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils) that represent more than 50%, or even even more than 80% by weight, or even more than 90% by weight of the solvent phase. This high proportion of volatile solvents can make it possible to obtain fast drying of said compositions on the face and reduced transfer. A longer drying time can, however, be sought for the cosmetic-based composition, in order to enable functionalization.
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It went through the application of the corrective composition or, as detailed below, capturing and / or moving it before drying.
[0029] The moderate transfer nature of the cosmetic-based composition can, for example, be promoted by the application, after step b), of an intermediate compound that improves the fixation of the makeup, said compound especially being a fixation hairspray.
[0030] Cosmetic-based compositions and / or the protective composition may also advantageously comprise at least one film-forming compound (for example: silicone resins, polyacrylates, trellises, acrylate dendrimer silicones or reactive silicones) to improve the power permanence of said compositions on the skin and, consequently, to provide better resistance to transfer.
[0031] The pattern created preferably reproduces the appearance of a user's natural skin texture or a predefined skin texture. The expression skin texture should be understood as the appearance visible to the naked eye produced by irregularities in the relief of the skin. The pattern created can reproduce the appearance of the user's natural freckles or predefined freckles.
[0032] In a variant, the pattern created is different from a pattern of an aesthetic pint. In a variant, the pattern created is not created by a phenomenon of light interference.
[0033] The device according to the invention makes it possible to create the desired makeup effect if it is relatively simple.
[0034] The term cosmetic device means that the device is compatible with a use in contact with human keratin materials.
[0035] The device can be intended to be placed in contact with a deposit of cosmetic-based composition present on the skin to create the desired pattern in said cosmetic-based deposit.
[0036] The term cosmetic-based makeup should be understood as a cover-up product.
6/76 [0037] The coverage function can be given by aggregated or non-aggregated particles, typically from the size of a few hundred nanometers to a few tens of pm. A make-up make-up product can thus generally comprise at least particulate inorganic or organic materials, such as fillers or powdery dyes (for example: pigments, nacres, interference particles, and mixtures thereof).
[0038] These particles can be included initially in the cosmetic-based composition or be obtained extemporaneously by a conversion, for example, by crystallization and then evaporation of solvent (in the case of a salt), by change in temperature ( in the case of a wax or semi-crystalline polymer), or by chemical conversion (for example, reaction between a carbonate and a divalent ion). For example, one can use a product that will crystallize as a salt at the solubility limit at which crystallization occurs when the solvent has evaporated or has been absorbed by the skin. It is also possible to use a crystalline polymer that will whiten through evaporation.
[0039] More particularly, the cosmetic-based composition used in the context of the present invention preferably comprises pigments and, particularly preferably, iron oxides.
[0040] The term visible substances that give it a non-homogeneous appearance must be understood as the visible substances confer, by virtue of their optical characteristics, for example, color, brightness or refractive index, a non-homogeneous appearance that is visible to naked eye without the aid of a magnifying device, such as a magnifying glass.
[0041] The substances are preferably fibers, and particularly preferably colored fibers.
[0042] Substances can be in the form of a set of objects that are isolated from each other, said isolated objects being
7/76 visible, or may comprise clusters of objects, said clusters being visible.
[0043] The substances slightly modify, for example, as a function of their concentration and / or color, the local appearance of the corrective composition deposit to produce the desired appearance.
[0044] The corrective composition deposit comprising the visible substances, formed in the cosmetic based composition deposit, can be continuous (that is, in the form of a full deposit) or discontinuous.
[0045] The corrective composition is preferably colored and, particularly preferably, comprises a red dye.
[0046] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises the steps consisting of:
i. applying a cosmetic-based composition to the skin, and ii. applying the corrective composition to the cosmetic-based composition in order to form the discontinuous islet deposit and / or the corrective composition deposit comprising visible substances that give it an inhomogeneous appearance.
[0047] Thus, the corrective composition is preferably applied over a deposit of cosmetic-based composition already present on the skin.
[0048] As a variant, the cosmetic base and corrective makeup are applied simultaneously to the skin to form the desired makeup.
[0049] As an additional variant, the corrective composition is first applied to the skin and then, in a second stage, the cosmetic base is applied to the skin in order to completely or partially cover the previously produced corrective composition deposit. In this case, the corrective composition can be made to diffuse through the cosmetic base layer in order to form the desired makeup. The application of the corrective composition, for example, during step b), can be
8/76 performed with an applicator comprising an application surface that comes in contact with the surface to be made up, especially the cosmetic base deposit, and:
the applicator may comprise a network of zones having properties of release of corrective composition, the discontinuous deposit obtained being linked to the arrangement of said zones on the application surface, said zones present on the application surface of the applicator especially consisting of a network of reliefs and / or holes and / or regions with different physico-chemical properties, and / or the applicator can be placed in contact in a spatially non-uniform manner with the surface to be made up, especially the cosmetic base, in order to obtain the discontinuous deposit of corrective composition islets.
[0050] The corrective composition can also be sprayed on the surface to be made up, especially on the cosmetic base deposit, in order to obtain the discontinuous islet deposit. In this case, the process may comprise, for example, before step b), the step of placing a screen containing holes to form a stencil against the surface to be made up, especially the cosmetic-based composition deposit, and an applicator, especially a sprayer, can spray the corrective composition through said screen, especially during step b), the discontinuous deposit obtained being connected to the arrangement of the holes in said screen.
[0051] In an implementation example, the invention refers to a process comprising steps consisting of:
choose an applicator and / or a screen with holes that makes it possible to obtain a predefined pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin relief and / or heterogeneity of colors, the choice being made among a set of applicators and / or screens with holes proposed to the user , and
9/76 obtain, in the cosmetic base composition, using the applicator and / or screen with selected holes, the said pattern using the process defined above.
[0052] The set of applicators and / or screens with orifices proposed to the user can initially be present in the same makeup set, for example, in different compartments of the same.
[0053] In an implementation example, the invention refers to a process comprising steps consisting of:
select a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin relief and / or heterogeneity of colors to be obtained, the choice of the pattern being made from a set of predefined patterns proposed to the user, manufacture, as a function of the choice made in the previous step , an applicator and / or a screen with holes that allows the production, in the cosmetic-based composition, of the said pattern to be obtained, and obtain, in the cosmetic-based composition, using the applicator and / or screen with selected orifices, the pattern to be obtained using the process defined above.
[0054] The set of predefined standards can, for example, be proposed to the user through software. In this case, units can be displayed on a display device.
[0055] The application surface of the applicator can be manufactured by 3D printing of a mold of the same, followed by a molding step.
[0056] The application surface of the applicator can be manufactured by laser cutting a sheet material.
[0057] According to another aspect, the present invention also refers to a set to perform the above process, comprising:
The. the cosmetic-based composition,
B. the corrective composition,
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ç. the applicator for the application of said corrective composition on a surface to be made up, especially a deposit of the cosmetic-based composition, and
d. optionally, the screen with holes.
[0058] The applicator may comprise an application surface comprising a network of zones having corrective composition release properties which is configured to form, during application on the makeup surface, especially on the cosmetic-based composition, a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin color and / or relief heterogeneities. As a variant or in addition, the applicator can spray the corrective composition to form the discontinuous islet deposit. The arrangement of the holes in the screen is advantageously linked to a pattern that reproduces the appearance of the skin color and / or relief heterogeneities to be obtained.
[0059] In accordance with another of its aspects, the present invention refers to a set to perform the above process, comprising:
the cosmetic-based composition, the corrective composition, the corrective composition comprising visible substances that give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said visible substances preferably being colored fibers.
[0060] In an implementation example, the removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base is performed by a device comprising a surface that comes into contact with the cosmetic base composition deposit, and:
the device comprises a set of zones for removing and / or moving the cosmetic base, the pattern, and especially the discontinuous net, obtained by being connected to the arrangement of said zones on the surface; these zones present on the surface of the device may especially consist of a group of elements having different properties of retention of
11/76 cosmetic base composition and / or holes through which the cosmetic base is extracted and / or embossed to move the cosmetic base locally, and / or the device is brought into contact in a spatially non-uniform manner with the base cosmetic in order to obtain the pattern, and especially the discontinuous islet network.
[0061] In an implementation example, the cosmetic base is removed by spray material in order to obtain the pattern, and especially the discontinuous islet network; the process comprises, before spraying material, a step of placing a screen with holes against the deposit of cosmetic-based composition and a spraying device sprays material through said screen. The pattern, and especially the discontinuous islet network, obtained is linked to the arrangement of the holes in said screen.
[0062] According to another of its aspects, the present invention refers to a set specially to perform the process as defined above, comprising:
a cosmetic base composition, and a device for locally removing and / or moving cosmetic base deposited on the skin, and optionally, a screen with holes, and optionally, a system for spraying material, the device comprising a surface comprising a network of zones for remove and / or move the cosmetic base to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin color and / or relief heterogeneities, and / or the spray system to spray material on the cosmetic base in order to remove the cosmetic base locally and forming said pattern, and / or the arrangement of the holes in said screen being connected to a pattern that reproduces the appearance of the skin color and / or relief heterogeneities to be obtained.
12/76 [0063] An object of the invention is also a makeup kit comprising a device as defined above and a block of a product for charging the device with product to be applied to the skin.
[0064] This set can comprise a device and a peripheral, loaded to the master surface to create the specially a master surface with product and others without product.
object of the invention islets on the surface having some zones [0065] One comprising:
a plurality of devices as defined above that differ in the arrangement of the islets within their peripheral surface, and a block of a product for loading at least one of said devices with product to be applied to the skin.
[0066] Thus, the invention can advantageously enable a user to choose the pattern he wants to create on his skin by selecting a particular device in such a kit.
[0067] An object of the invention is also a process for making up the skin, comprising a step of moving and / or capturing a product present on the skin and / or a step of applying a product to the skin using a device as defined above, to create visible areas whose distribution corresponds to that of the islets on the peripheral surface.
[0068] The use of the device according to the invention preferably makes it possible to form a discontinuous network of visible zones in order to create the desired pattern.
[0069] Visible zones can be created by transferring a product to the skin, which preferably comprises a red dye.
[0070] The visible areas can also be created by capturing the product on the skin, the skin having previously received the application of a product, preferably a cosmetic base.
it is also a makeup kit
13/76 [0071] The process may comprise the preliminary application to the skin of a cosmetic base. The device can then be used after depositing a cosmetic base layer, to reproduce the appearance of skin grain and / or freckles on the makeup surface.
[0072] Treatment using the device is preferably performed without sliding the peripheral surface over the optionally made-up skin, and particularly preferably by rolling the peripheral surface over the optionally made-up skin.
[0073] The device is preferably placed in contact with a deposit of cosmetic base present on the skin and moved in relation to that deposit locally to capture the cosmetic base and to obtain the pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous network of visible zones.
[0074] In this case, the peripheral surface particularly preferably comprises islets with properties to capture the cosmetic base present on the skin, which are different from the properties of the surrounding surface.
[0075] In a preferred variant, the device is placed in contact with a cosmetic base deposit present on the skin and moved in relation to that deposit in order to move said cosmetic base locally.
[0076] In this case, the islets of the device are in relief and protrude from the surrounding surface so that their contact with the cosmetic base makes it possible to move that cosmetic base locally to obtain the pattern, and especially the discontinuous network of visible zones desired.
[0077] These reliefs have, for example, a height between 1 and 5 mm and a diameter, measured at the tip, between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.
[0078] In a preferred variant, the device is placed in contact with a cosmetic-based deposit on the skin and moved in relation to that deposit to apply a product to the cosmetic base
14/76 to form a discontinuous deposit of visible areas and / or in order to apply to the cosmetic base a product comprising visible substances that give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said product having optical properties that locally modify the appearance of the makeup in a way to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of raised skin and / or heterogeneity of colors.
Coverage measurement
In the case of liquid compositions (at 25 ° C) [0079] The term liquid composition means a composition whose viscosity can be measured. A liquid composition can flow under its own weight.
[0080] Coverage of liquid compositions is measured at a finished thickness of 50 pm for liquid compositions.
[0081] The composition is spread over black matte and white matte contrast cards, for example, from the Leneta Form WP1 brand for the black matte card and from the Leneta 1A brand for the white matte card.
[0082] The application can be performed with an automatic spreader.
[0083] The measurements are captured on the compositions thus spread.
Solid compositions (at 25 ° C) [0084] Solid compositions are those whose viscosity cannot be measured.
[0085] They can be stick-shaped compositions or powdery compositions, in the form of loose or compacted powders.
a) For powdery, loose or compacted solid compositions, the composition is applied using the same contrast cards as above, covered with a slightly rough transparent adhesive tape, for example, from the Blenderm® brand from the company 3M and
15/76 reference 15025, connected by means of the adhesive face on the contrast cards.
[0086] The composition is deposited on the adhesive tape in order to obtain a uniform deposit of 0.5 mg / cm ² ± 0.02 mg / cm ² .
[0087] To perform the deposition, a sponge loaded with the composition and mounted on an erosion machine that imposes predefined movements on the sponge can be used. A sponge is, for example, a Lancôme single-use sponge - Photogenic type, used on the pink side.
b) The stick-shaped compositions are melted, for example, at 90 ° C, and then spread in liquid form on black matte and white matte contrast cards, for example, from the same references above, not covered with Blenderm®. The spreading bar is kept at the same temperature as the composition, in order to avoid a thermal shock.
[0088] The stick-shaped compositions are thus deposited, once melted, to a thickness of 50 pm.
Measurements and calculations [0089] Reflectance spectra are acquired using a Minolta 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry / 8 ° and observation D65 / 10 ⁰ , in excluded specular component mode, small aperture (Creiss)), on black backgrounds and white, the contrast cards optionally being covered with Blenderm® as indicated above.
[0090] The spectra are expressed as colorimetric coordinates in the space of the Commission Internationale de TEclairage CIELab76 according to recommendation 15: 2004.
[0091] The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of Y on the black background, divided by the average value of Y on the white background, multiplied by 100.
According to a particular mode, the cosmetic base composition used in the context of the invention has a coverage value greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50 and even better preferably ranging from 60 to 95.
Corrective composition [0093] As mentioned above, the corrective composition may make it possible to obtain a discontinuous islet deposit. As a variant, the corrective composition is inhomogeneous in appearance due to the presence of visible substances.
Corrective particulate composition [0094] The corrective composition can be a particulate and especially fibrous composition.
[0095] The particulate corrective composition may comprise a dye, for example, a colored powder and / or a dye and / or colored fibers.
[0096] As a variant, the particulate corrective composition may comprise a non-colored material, for example, a powder and / or a wax and / or a polymer and / or a salt.
[0097] In this case, the particulate corrective composition can produce an effect of relief and / or whiteness and / or brightness.
[0098] It is possible, for example, to deposit the corrective composition in several different points, for example, by applying it with a brush. Since the brush is capable of capturing particles at its ends, the corrective composition can be applied by lightly passing the brush end over the surface on which the cosmetic-based composition was deposited.
[0099] In this case, the user can apply the corrective composition on the cosmetic-based composition deposit in a spatially inhomogeneous manner.
[00100] Other types of applicator can also be used to apply the particulate corrective composition, as detailed below.
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Corrective composition in fluid form [00101] As a variant, the corrective composition can be in fluid form during its application to the cosmetic-based composition deposit. !
[00102] In this case, the corrective composition may comprise a continuous medium, for example, a medium in which visible substances are present.
[00103] The corrective composition that is in fluid form during its application can, in an implementation example:
The. understand visible substances, especially fibers, and / or
B. comprise a volatile solvent, especially a volatile hydrocarbon based solvent, such as ethanol, acetone, isopropanol, propanol, dimethyl ether, methyl ethyl ether, diethyl ether, and / or a volatile hydrocarbon based oil as chosen from C ₈ alkanes -C ₁₆ linear or branched (for example: isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane; a dean, dodecane or tetradecane, or an undecane / tridecane mixture) and / or linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8x10 ' ⁶ m ² / s) and specially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms (for example:
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane or polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof), and / or
ç.
be in the form of a multiphase and, especially, biphasic composition, one of the phases especially being transparent.
[00104] Preferably, the visible substances comprise, and especially consist of, colored fibers with an average length between 0.2 mm and 2.5 mm and / or an average diameter between 50 pm and 200 pm.
[00105] These fibers can be natural or synthetic, and mineral or organic.
18/76 [00106] The length L and being the term “fiber” should be understood as an object of diameter D so that L is much larger than D, D of the circle in which the fiber cross section can be inscribed .
[00107] The fibers will generally have a length L ranging from 100 pm to 1000 pm, but they can be shorter or longer.
[00108] They can be longer especially if the fibers are very thin, for example, with a diameter D less than 5 pm. In that case, the size can vary up to 3000 pm.
[00109] They can be shorter especially if the fibers are slightly thick, for example, with a diameter D greater than 30 pm. In this case, the smallest limit in the size range may be 50 pm.
[00110] In particular, the L / D ratio can be between 3.5 and 2500, preferably between 5 and 500 and particularly preferably between
5e150.
[00111] One can especially use fibers used in the manufacture of textiles, and especially silk fiber, cotton fiber, wool fiber, linen fiber, cellulose fiber extracted in particular from wood, plants or algae, fiber from rayon, polyamide fiber (Nylon®), viscose fiber, acetate fiber, especially rayon acetate fiber, poly fiber (pphenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid), especially Kevlar® fiber, acrylic polymer fiber, especially methacrylate fiber polymethyl or poly (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) fiber, polyolefin fiber and especially polyethylene or polypropylene fiber, glass fiber, silica fiber, carbon fiber, especially graphite carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene fiber (such as Teflon ®), insoluble collagen fiber, polyester fiber, polyvinyl chloride fiber or polyvinylidene chloride fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, chitosan fiber, p fiber oliurethane, polyethylene phthalate fiber, and fibers formed from
19/76 polymer blends, such as those mentioned previously, for example, polyamide / polyester fibers.
[00112] The fibers may be non-colored or colored intrinsically or by coating and / or treating said fibers with an agent that is capable of imparting color. Such an agent can be chosen especially from cationic, anionic and non-ionic dyes, for example, nitro or anthraquinone dyes, or among oxidation precursors used in hair dye, or from grafting dyes. Preferably, the coloring agents used are anionic dyes, and especially those containing sulfonic functions, and also grafting dyes, such as those used in textile treatments.
[00113] The diameter of a fiber corresponds to its largest transverse dimension. | [00114] In a particularly preferred manner, the colored fiber substances used in
JP2006052203 and visible comprise and especially consist of red or violet.
[00115] For example, the documents JP2007210894, JP2007077098,
JP2006052202.
[00116] In an implementation example, the corrective composition comprises colored grains dispersed in a medium, which can be moderately colored or not colored.
[00117] The composition can be applied to the skin by transfer, using applicators as described below.
[00118] The colored grains can have a size between 0.3 mm and 2 mm and especially between 0.5 mm and 2 mm.
[00119] The grains can be made of a material chosen from glass, zirconium oxide, tungsten carbide, plastics, such as polyurethanes, polyamides, polytetrafluoroethylene or polypropylene, metals, such as steel, copper, bronze or chromium, marble, onyx mother of pearl
20/76 natural and precious stones (diamond, emerald, ruby or sapphire, amethyst or aquamarine). Glass glasses are advantageously used: one can use, for example, products sold under the reference Silibeads® by the company Sigmund Lindner, these beads having the advantage of giving makeup a satin effect. Colored grains can be deformable or non-deformable, solid or hollow, and coated or uncoated.
[00120] These particles are initially colored, or are powders treated in order to give them a color or modify their color, for example, by impregnation in a coloring composition.
[00121] The medium can be a carbopol gel, a guar gum gel or an emulsion.
[00122] When the corrective composition is in liquid form during its application, it can be applied by transferring on the cosmetic-based composition through an applicator. As a variant, the correct composition can be sprayed onto the cosmetic base deposit as detailed below.
Droplet application [00123] When the corrective composition is in liquid form, it can be applied to the cosmetic base composition in the form of droplets.
[00124] In this case, the corrective composition may comprise a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 100%. In that case, the corrective composition can be sprayed and can optionally comprise a solvent, typically ethanol or a silicon-based or carbon-based solvent.
[00125] The use of such solvents can advantageously enable the production of drops that dry quickly.
[00126] The corrective composition can have surface and drying properties that
Phenomenon can minimize their spread on the surface. surface tension
21/76 [00127] It is possible, in this case, to apply the corrective composition in the form of a continuous deposit, and the discontinuous islet deposit can be obtained through a surface tension phenomenon.
[00128] In this case, a corrective composition whose surface tension is greater than the surface tension of the surface can be used. Preferably, the difference is at least 3 points and preferably 10 points (the surface tension is expressed in mN / m). For example, since the surface of the cosmetic-based composition is slightly hydrophobic, due to the presence of fatty substances, such as isododecane (surface tension = approximately 25 mN / m), the corrective composition has a surface tension of at least 28 and preferably greater than 35 mN / m. Preferably, the corrective composition has a surface tension greater than 50 and is, for example, a water-based or predominantly water-based composition.
[00129] In this case, the mass content of solids can vary from 0.01% to 90%.
[00130] When the batch deposit is formed by a surface tension phenomenon and when the corrective composition comprises a dye, the mass content of solids in the corrective composition can vary from 0.01% to 100%.
[00131] When the batch deposit is formed by a surface tension phenomenon and when the corrective composition does not comprise a dye, the mass content of solids in the corrective composition can vary from 1% to 100%. Such corrective composition can be applied by hand or by spraying.
Multiphase corrective composition [00132] As mentioned above, the corrective composition can be in the form of a multiphase and, especially, biphasic composition.
22/76 [00133] In that case, one of the phases may comprise a dye or a non-colored material (powder or wax or polymer or salts or other materials). For example, the corrective composition may comprise two immiscible liquids, one of which contains a dye or a polymer.
[00134] Preferably, one of the phases is transparent.
[00135] In this case, the mass content of solids can vary from 0.01% to 90%.
[00136] When the corrective composition is multiphase and comprises a dye, the mass content of solids can vary from 0.01% to 90%.
[00137] When the corrective composition is multiphase and does not comprise a dye, the mass content of solids can vary from 1% to 90%.
[00138] A concentration of solids ranging from 0.01% to 90% is used, depending on whether a colored or non-colored material is used.
[00139] The multiphase corrective composition can be applied by hand or by spraying.
[00140] Regardless of the galenic form of the corrective composition, the fibers present in the corrective composition can advantageously have all or some of the following characteristics:
the fibers have a length between 1 pm and 10 mm and preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm, and / or the fibers have a cross section inscribed in a circle with a diameter between 10 pm and 1000 pm, and / or the fibers produce at least one optical effect, especially in terms of color and / or brightness and / or relief.
[00141] In general, the corrective composition can be applied by hand, by spraying, with an airbrush or with an applicator designed to deposit the corrective composition by transferring on the surface to be made up, especially the cosmetic-based composition.
Discontinuous islet deposit
23/76 [00142] The discontinuous islet deposit may comprise islets that touch and islets that are separated. As a variant, the discontinuous islet deposit may consist of a set of separate islets.
[00143] The discontinuous islet deposit preferably has all or some of the following characteristics:
The. the islets have an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm and particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and / or
B. the average distance that separates two adjacent islets is between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 mm and 5 mm and particularly preferably between 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, and / or
ç. the batch tank comprises at least 5, preferably at least 10, preferably at least 30 and particularly preferably at least 100 islets.
[00144] The size of an islet corresponds to its largest dimension.
[00145] The average size of the islets corresponds to the arithmetic average of the sizes of said islets. The distance between two islets corresponds to the distance that separates the barycenters from said islets.
[00146] The average distance between two adjacent islets corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the number of pairs of adjacent islets of the distances that separate two adjacent islets.
[00147] Unless mentioned otherwise, the islet sizes and distances that separate two islets are measured at the time of applying the corrective composition.
[00148] The density of islets in the batch deposit is preferably greater than 5 islets per cm ² of surface area of skin covered with the cosmetic base, and less than 1000 per cm ² .
[00149] A discontinuous islet deposit having:
islets with an average size between 0.4 and 4 mm,
24/76 an average distance that separates two adjacent islets between 1 and 5 mm, a number of islets greater than 1 per cm ² , is preferably obtained in order to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of freckles.
[00150] The islets are preferably non-reflective. The discontinuous deposit of islets preferably does not consist of a deposit of shiny flakes on the cosmetic base.
[00151] The islets are preferably applied according to a predefined pattern as detailed below.
[00152] The appearance linked, for example, to freckles can advantageously be reproduced by creating a discontinuous islet deposit having at least two regions within which the islets differ in at least one of their appearance characteristics.
[00153] Thus, the discontinuous deposit may comprise a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second regions differing in at least their color and / or average size and / or density and / or shape and / or brightness.
[00154] Preferably, the discontinuous deposit comprises a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second regions differing in at least their color and / or average size and / or density.
[00155] In an implementation example, two different corrective compositions, especially of different colors, are present in the first and second regions.
[00156] The discontinuous deposit can also comprise a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second regions differing at least in their colorimetric difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space in relation to the color of all or part of the cosmetic-based composition deposit . As a reminder, ΔΕ is defined by the following relationship:
25/76
ΔΒ * = 7 (( ^L i - W + («ι - α2) ² + (6χ - brf in wed |.
Li.a ^ oi are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L ₂ , a ₂ , b ₂ are those of the second color in the CIELab system (L luminance indices, red, b yellow).
[00157] This measurement of ΔΕ between a first region of the face comprising few or no islets and a second region of the face comprising more islets can be performed using a Chromasphere. The following protocol can be used: 100 mg of cosmetic base is weighed and applied with an unprotected finger on the face; corrective makeup is then applied. After a drying time of 15 minutes, images of the makeup cheek, in a first region and in a second region, respectively, are acquired using the Chromasphere.
[00158] The measurement difference corresponding to ΔΕ reflects the desired heterogeneity.
[00159] Such variations in the appearance characteristics of the islets can advantageously make it possible to recreate natural effects.
[00160] It is advantageously possible to obtain a discontinuous islet deposit in which a first region has a greater islet density than that of a second region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second region is in the periocular area or on the forehead.
[00161] In particular, it is possible to obtain a discontinuous islet deposit in which a first region has a greater islet density than that of a second and third region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second and third regions are in the periocular area and on the forehead, respectively.
[00162] The islets obtained may have a color difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space greater than or equal to 1 and especially 3, in relation to the color of all or part of the cosmetic-based composition deposit.
26/76 [00163] The batch deposit can also be obtained through the application of an electric and / or magnetic field and / or an excess pressure after the corrective composition has been applied to the surface to be made up, especially to the cosmetic base deposit .
[00164] In this case, the intensity of the magnetic field applied in proximity can be between 1 mT and 2 T and the corrective composition can comprise particles of non-zero magnetic susceptibility, for example, based on iron or rare earth metals.
Removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base performed in step b) [00165] The removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base performed in step b) preferably makes it possible to form a discontinuous islet network that locally modifies the appearance of the makeup in order to create the desired pattern.
[00166] The cosmetic base can, during step b) be removed by being placed in contact with a surface that has a plurality of regions with different physical-chemical properties.
[00167] In this case, the surface is particularly preferably placed in contact with the cosmetic base deposit and removed in relation to it in order to locally remove the cosmetic base and obtain the pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network.
[00168] The surface particularly preferably comprises a plurality of regions with different retention properties for the cosmetic-based composition. The surface comprises, for example, a plurality of absorbent and / or adhesive zones, especially deposits of absorbent and / or adhesive composition, making it possible to remove the cosmetic base when they come into contact with it.
[00169] At least one of the following materials can be used as a constituent material for adhesive areas: an oily deposit and, in
27/76 particular, thick, optionally having a viscosity between 2 Pa.se and 200 Pa.s, a polymer or material that combines polymer and plasticizer whose Tg is less than 10 ° C and optionally less than 4 ° C, and / or pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA).
[00170] More particularly, as a constituent material for the adhesive areas, elastomers can be used, to which can be added a plasticizer or a solvent that is capable of decreasing Tg.
[00171] These elastomers can be acrylic or methacrylic polymers, or acrylic or methacrylic copolymers, moderately cross-linked or non-cross-linked rubbers, or copolymers based on styrenes, butadiene, butylene and isoprene. In particular, styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS), styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene (SEBS), styrene-ethylene / propylene (SEP) and styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS) can be used.
[00172] The use of thick oils and pressure sensitive adhesives can be advantageous to remove material if the cosmetic base is relatively dry or dusty. The term relatively dry means that the coating does not have an oily touch.
[00173] The absorbent zones preferably make it possible to remove the cosmetic base by capillary action. It is possible, in this case, to use absorbent zones comprising, and especially consisting of, a fabric (set of fibers that capture a cosmetic base between the fibers), cardboard, a tufted support, one or more holes, or one or more wells.
[00174] The tufted support may comprise a set of fibers retained at one end. These fibers preferably have a diameter between 2 and 200 pm and a length between 0.2 mm and 5 mm.
[00175] These fibers may preferably comprise, and especially may consist of, a polymer, preferably polyamide, preferably polyamide 6-6 (Nylon®). A blend of fibers
28/76 of different sizes can be used, for example, a mixture of fibers of 200 pm and 10 pm in diameter.
[00176] When the absorbent zones comprise one or more holes or wells, the diameter and depth of these holes or wells can be between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.
[00177] The absorbent zones can also comprise reliefs, especially made of cardboard or elastomeric material with a Young's modulus less than or equal to 100 MPa. These reliefs have, for example, a height between 1 and 5 mm and a size, measured at the tip, between 0.3 mm and 5 mm. The average space between two adjacent reliefs can be between 0.1 mm and 1 mm.
[00178] It is also preferably possible to use absorbent zones that allow the cosmetic base to be captured by a surface tension effect. In this case, the absorbent zone may have a high surface tension, for example, greater than 40 mN / m.
[00179] The absorbent zone that allows the cosmetic base to be captured by a surface tension effect can be made, for example, of metal, especially iron, metal or ceramic oxide, or polymer, and its surface tension can be greater than that of the skin and greater than that of the cosmetic-based composition.
[00180] Areas having an absorbent nature by capillary action or surface tension can advantageously be relatively easy to wash after use.
[00181] As a variant, one can use absorbent fillers, such as hydrophilic materials, for example, magnesia powder, or hollow materials, for example, pozzolan powder or a ceramic or sintered materials.
[00182] Oil-absorbing fillers that can be specially mentioned include:
29/76
- silica powders, such as porous silica microspheres, amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, silica silylate powders, especially those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning and under the name Enova Airgel MT 1100 by Cabot, amorphous hollow silica particles, and precipitated silica powders treated superficially with a mineral wax,
- acrylic polymer powders, such as: porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
- polyamide powders, such as: Nylon-6 powder,
- perlite or magnesium carbonate powders, and mixtures thereof.
[00183] As a variant, the cosmetic base is, during step b), captured by suction.
[00184] In this case, a suction surface containing holes can be placed close to, especially in contact with, the cosmetic base deposit, and the cosmetic base can, during step b), be captured by suction through said holes.
[00185] The suction is preferably performed with a suction device that generates a suction power between 10 W and 1000 W and preferably between 20 and 200 W. However, a suction power less than 10 W can be used, especially when suction occurs in a relatively small surface area, for example, less than 4 cm ² .
[00186] Use will be made, for example, of a set with a turbine suction of the powder mentioned above.
[00187] The suction device can be equipped with a suction nozzle to which, for example, by attachment by coupling, the suction surface containing holes is attached.
30/76 [00188] The suction surface may be in the form of a leaf-shaped element containing holes. The area of the zone over which the holes are present (area of the included holes) is, for example, between 10 and 150 cm ² , for example, between 50 and 80 cm ² .
[00189] The suction surface containing holes comprises, for example, holes with a size less than or equal to 2 mm, preferably less than 1 mm, for example, with a size between 300 pm and 500 pm. The suction surface containing holes preferably comprises at least 50 holes, for example, between 50 and 150 holes.
[00190] To perform the suction, the suction device and the suction surface containing holes can be placed close to the cosmetic base tank and then, without moving, the suction is turned on for a few seconds.
[00191] It is particularly advantageous to use suction to capture a fluid, greasy or aqueous, or dusty cosmetic base locally.
[00192] In an exemplary modality, the cosmetic base is, during step b), moved by being placed in contact with a plurality of reliefs originating from the surface of a tool.
[00193] These reliefs have, for example, a height between 1 and 5 mm and a diameter, measured at the tip, between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.
[00194] In an exemplary modality, the cosmetic base is, during step b), moved by spray material.
[00195] To do this, a spray device can be used that generates a spray power between 10 W and 1000 W and preferably between 20 and 200 W. However, a propulsion power less than 10 W can be used, especially when spraying occurs over a relatively small surface area, for example, less than 4 cm ² .
31/76 [00196] For example, a blower with a turbine or a dust fan mentioned above is used.
[00197] The spraying device can be equipped with a spray nozzle to which, for example, by attachment by coupling, a surface containing holes is attached. This orifice-containing surface may have the same characteristics as the orifice-suction surface described above.
[00198] To perform the spraying, the spraying device and the surface containing holes can be placed close to the cosmetic base deposit and then, without moving, the spraying is turned on for a few seconds.
[00199] It is particularly advantageous to use material spraying to move a fluid, greasy or aqueous cosmetic base, an emulsified formulation cosmetic base or a dusty cosmetic base locally.
[00200] In this case, the cosmetic base can be moved by a gas flow, especially by spraying with compressed air.
[00201] As a variant, the cosmetic base is moved by spraying a powdery composition and / or by spraying a liquid. In that case, a solvent that is capable of dissolving the cosmetic-based composition can be sprayed onto the cosmetic-based deposit.
[00202] As solvents that can be used to dissolve the cosmetic-based composition, one can mention: alkanes, especially hexane, isododecane or octane, silicones, especially PDMS, ether, acetone, ethanol, water, and mixtures thereof.
[00203] In an exemplary embodiment, the cosmetic base is, during step b), moved through the application of an electromagnetic field, the cosmetic base preferably comprising particles of non-zero magnetic susceptibility, and a magnetic field being
32/76 applied close to the cosmetic base deposit in order to move these particles. In this case, the cosmetic base can comprise particles based on iron or rare earth metals, and the intensity of the applied magnetic field can be between 1 mTesla and 2 Tesla.
Discontinuous islet network [00204] As mentioned above, the removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base performed in step b) preferably makes it possible to obtain a discontinuous islet network.
[00205] The discontinuous islet network can comprise islets that touch and islets that are separated. As a variant, the discontinuous islet network may consist of a set of separate islets.
[00206] The discontinuous islet network preferably has all or some of the following characteristics:
the islets have an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm and particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and / or the average distance that separates two islets adjacent is between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 mm and 5 mm and particularly preferably between 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, and / or the discontinuous network comprises at least 5, preferably at least 10, preferably at least 30 and particularly preferably at least 100 islets.
[00207] The size of an islet corresponds to its largest dimension.
[00208] The average size of the islets corresponds to the arithmetic average of the sizes of said islets.
[00209] The distance between two islets corresponds to the distance that separates the barycenters from the cosmetic base areas covered with said islets.
33/76 [00210] The average distance between two adjacent islets corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the number of pairs of adjacent islets of the distances that separate two adjacent islets.
[00211] The sizes of the islets and distances that separate two islets are, unless mentioned otherwise, measured only after the removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base has been performed.
[00212] The density of islets in the discontinuous net is preferably greater than 5 islets per cm ² of surface area of skin covered with the cosmetic base, and less than 1000 per cm ² .
[00213] A discontinuous islet network having:
islets with an average size between 0.4 and 4 mm, an average distance that separates two adjacent islets between 1 and 5 mm, a number of islets greater than 1 per cm ² , is preferably obtained, in order to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of freckles.
[00214] The islets are preferably formed according to a predefined pattern as detailed below.
[00215] The appearance linked, for example, to freckles can advantageously be reproduced by creating a discontinuous islet network having at least two regions within which the islets differ in at least one of their appearance characteristics.
[00216] Thus, the discontinuous network may comprise a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second regions differing in at least their color and / or average size and / or density and / or shape and / or brightness.
[00217] Preferably, the discontinuous network comprises a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second
34/76 regions differing in at least their color and / or average size and / or density.
[00218] The discontinuous network may also comprise a first and a second region, the islets present in the first and second regions differing at least in their colorimetric difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space, in relation to the color of all or part of the base composition deposit cosmetic.
[00219] As a reminder, ΔΕ is defined by the following relationship:
- _v -27 -Γ -r _{on wed (} .
L ^ a ^ bi are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L ₂ , a ₂ , b ₂ are those of the second color in the CIELab system (L luminance indices, red, b yellow).
[00220] This measurement of ΔΕ between a first region of the face comprising few or no islets and a second region of the face comprising more islets can be performed using a Chromasphere. The following protocol can be used: 100 mg of cosmetic base is weighed and applied with an unprotected finger on the face; the cosmetic base can then be moved and / or removed locally. After a drying time of 15 minutes, images of the makeup cheek, in a first region and in a second region, respectively, are acquired using the Chromasphere.
[00221] The measurement difference corresponding to ΔΕ reflects the desired heterogeneity.
[00222] Such variations in the appearance characteristics of the islets can advantageously make it possible to recreate natural effects.
[00223] It is advantageously possible to obtain a discontinuous islet network in which a first region has a greater islet density than that of a second region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second region is in the periocular area or on the forehead.
35/76 [00224] In particular, it is possible to obtain a discontinuous islet network in which a first region has a greater islet density than that of a second and third region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second and third regions are in the periocular area and in the forehead, respectively.
[00225] The islets obtained may have a color difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space greater than or equal to 1 and especially 3, in relation to the color of all or part of the cosmetic-based composition deposit.
Properties of the cosmetic device according to the invention [00226] As mentioned above, according to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic device with a peripheral surface comprising islets arranged non-uniformly within a surrounding surface, said islets each having a larger dimension of at least 0.8 mm and having a shape and / or properties to capture and / or release a product present on the skin or apply a shape and / or properties different from those of the surrounding surface over it , in order to lead to the creation, on the skin, of a pattern whose appearance is linked to the arrangement of the islets on the peripheral surface.
[00227] The islets can be in relief and project in relation to the surrounding surface. In this case, as will be detailed below, the islets can, by being placed in contact with a makeup composition applied to the skin, make it possible to move said makeup composition locally to obtain the desired pattern.
[00228] In this case, the release or capture of product may originate from the affinity of this product for the islets.
[00229] In an exemplary mode, the islets have physico-chemical properties that are distinct from those of the surrounding surface.
36/76 [00230] Preferably, islets comprise, and especially consist of, adhesive and / or absorbent islets, especially deposits of adhesive composition and / or absorbent composition.
[00231] At least one of the following products can be used as an adhesive composition: an oily and, in particular, thick deposit, optionally having a viscosity between 2 Pa.se and 200 Pa.s, a polymer or material that combines polymer and plasticizer whose Tg is less than 10 ° C and optionally less than 4 ° C, and / or pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA).
[00232] More particularly, as a constituent material for deposits of adhesive composition, one can use elastomers, to which can be added a plasticizer or a solvent that is capable of decreasing Tg.
[00233] These elastomers can be acrylic or methacrylic polymers, or acrylic or methacrylic copolymers, moderately cross-linked or non-cross-linked rubbers, or copolymers based on styrenes, butadiene, butylene and isoprene. In particular, styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS), styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene (SEBS), styrene-ethylene / propylene (SEP) and styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS) can be used.
[00234] The use of thick oils and pressure sensitive adhesives can be advantageous to remove material if the cosmetic base is relatively dry or dusty. The term relatively dry means that the coating does not have an oily touch.
[00235] Deposits of absorbent composition preferably make it possible to remove the cosmetic base by capillary action. In this case, it is possible to use absorbent compositions comprising, and especially consisting of, a fabric (set of fibers that capture a cosmetic base between the fibers), cardboard, or a tufted support. It is also possible to absorb cosmetic base locally using absorbent islets in the form of one or more holes or one or more wells.
37/76 [00236] The tufted support may comprise a set of fibers retained at one end. These fibers preferably have a diameter between 2 and 200 pm and a length between 0.2 mm and 5 mm.
[00237] These fibers may preferably comprise, and especially may consist of, a polymer, preferably polyamide, preferably polyamide 6-6 (Nylon®). A mixture of fibers of different sizes can be used, for example, a mixture of fibers of 200 pm and 10 pm in diameter.
[00238] When the absorbent islets comprise one or more holes or wells, the diameter and depth of these holes or wells can be between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.
[00239] The deposits of absorbent composition may also comprise reliefs, especially made of cardboard or elastomeric material with a Young's modulus less than or equal to 100 MPa. These reliefs have, for example, a height between 1 and 5 mm and a size, measured at the tip, between 0.3 mm and 5 mm. The average space between two adjacent reliefs can be between 0.1 mm and 1 mm.
[00240] It is also preferably possible to use absorbent islets that allow the cosmetic base to be captured by a surface tension effect. In this case, the absorbent islets may have a high surface tension, for example, greater than 40 mN / m.
[00241] The absorbent islets that allow the cosmetic base to be captured by a surface tension effect can be made, for example, of metal, especially iron, metal or ceramic oxide, or polymer, and its surface tension can be greater than that of the skin and greater than that of the cosmetic-based composition.
[00242] Islets having an absorbent nature by capillary action or surface tension can advantageously be relatively easy to wash after use.
38/76 [00243] As a variant, one can use absorbent fillers, such as hydrophilic materials, for example, magnesia powder, or hollow materials, for example, pozzolan powder or a ceramic or sintered materials.
[00244] Oil-absorbing fillers that can be specially mentioned include:
silica powders, such as porous silica microspheres, amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, silica silylate powders, especially those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning and under the name Enova Aerogel MT 1100 by Cabot, hollow amorphous silica particles, and precipitated silica powders superficially treated with a mineral wax, acrylic polymer powders, such as: porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders / copolymer of lauryl methacrylate, polyamide powders, such as: Nylon-6 powder, perlite powders or magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[00245] In a preferred variant, the hydrophilicity of the islets may be different from that of the surrounding surface.
[00246] Thus, the islets can be configured to allow the removal of a product, especially a cosmetic base, applied to the skin during its placement in contact with it. This product removal advantageously makes it possible to obtain the desired pattern.
[00247] The islets can be defined with the aid of pins that can be moved in relation to the surrounding surface. These pins are defined, for example, by electrically controlled actuators.
[00248] The use of pins that can be moved in relation to the surrounding surface advantageously makes it possible to modify the distribution of the islets. In the context of the invention, the user can thus
39/76 customize the arrangement of the islets on the device in order to obtain on your skin the pattern of your choice, for example, a grain of skin and / or freckles desired in particular.
[00249] In an implementation example, islets can be defined by grains of a product that can be transferred to the skin and / or by a liquid. In this case, the product can advantageously be colored. The liquid can make it possible to capture a product on the peripheral surface that is then transferred to the skin. As a variant, the liquid is transferred to the skin, the liquid, in this case, preferably being colored.
[00250] The device may comprise islets having a greater dimension greater than or equal to 2 mm and / or islets having a greater dimension greater than or equal to 3 mm.
[00251] The device may comprise islets having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm, islets having a larger dimension between 2 mm (excluded limits) and 3 mm and also islets having a larger dimension between 3 mm (excluded limits) and also 5 mm.
[00252] The number of islets having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm can be greater than the number of islets having a larger dimension between 2 (excluded limits) and 3 mm and than the number of islets having a dimension greater between 3 (excluded limits) and 5 mm.
[00253] The device may comprise islets with a circular contour and / or islets with a non-circular contour. The device may comprise islets that touch and islets that are separated.
[00254] The device may comprise islets with a circular contour in greater numbers than that of the non-circular contour islets.
[00255] The device may comprise adjacent islets whose spacing is greater than or equal to 2 mm.
Discontinuous network of visible zones
40/76 [00256] As mentioned above, the use of the device according to the invention can advantageously make it possible to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones.
[00257] The discontinuous network of visible zones preferably has all or some of the following characteristics:
the visible zones have an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm and particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and / or the average distance that separates two adjacent visible zones is between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 mm and 5 mm and particularly preferably between 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, and / or the discontinuous network comprises at least 5, preferably at least at least 10, preferably at least 30 and particularly preferably at least 100 visible zones.
[00258] The size of a visible zone corresponds to its largest dimension.
[00259] The average size of the visible zones corresponds to the arithmetic average of the sizes of said visible zones.
[00260] The distance between two visible zones corresponds to the distance that separates the barycenters from the said visible zones.
[00261] In the particular case of the formation of visible areas by removal and / or movement of cosmetic base present on the skin, the distance between two visible areas corresponds to the distance that separates the barycenters from the cosmetic base areas covered by said visible areas.
[00262] The average distance between two adjacent visible zones corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones of the distances that separate two adjacent visible zones.
41/76 [00263] The sizes of visible zones and distances that separate two visible zones are, unless mentioned otherwise, measured only after the end of the use of the device according to the invention.
[00264] The density of visible zones in the discontinuous network is preferably greater than 5 visible zones per cm ² of surface area of treated skin, and less than 1000 per cm ² .
[00265] A discontinuous network of visible zones having:
visible zones with an average size between 0.4 mm and 4 mm, an average distance that separates two adjacent visible zones between 1 mm and 5 mm, a number of visible zones greater than 1 per cm ² , is preferably obtained in order to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of freckles.
[00266] The appearance linked, for example, to freckles can advantageously be reproduced by creating a discontinuous network of visible zones having at least two regions within which the visible zones differ in at least one of their appearance characteristics.
[00267] Thus, the discontinuous network can comprise a first and a second region, the visible zones present in the first and second regions differing in at least their color and / or average size and / or density and / or shape and / or brightness.
[00268] Preferably, the discontinuous network comprises a first and a second region, the visible zones present in the first and second regions differing in at least its color and / or average size and / or density.
[00269] The discontinuous network can also comprise a first and a second region, the visible zones present in the first and second regions differing at least in their colorimetric difference ΔΕ in space
42/76
CIELab, regarding the color of all or part of the cosmetic-based composition deposit.
[00270] As a reminder, ΔΕ is defined by the following relation: = y ((Li - L ₂ ) ² + ( _αι - + _{in wed |} .
L ^ ai, b ^ are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L ₂ , to ₂ , b ₂ are those of the second color in the CIELab system (L luminance indices, red, b yellow).
[00271] This measurement of ΔΕ between a first region of the face comprising few or no visible zones and a second region of the face comprising more visible zones can be performed using a Chromasphere. The following protocol can be used: 100 mg of cosmetic base is weighed and applied with an unprotected finger on the face; a discontinuous network of visible zones is then created through the performance of a process according to the invention. After a drying time of 15 minutes, images of the makeup cheek, in a first region and in a second region, respectively, are acquired using the Chromasphere.
[00272] The measurement difference corresponding to ΔΕ reflects the desired heterogeneity.
[00273] Such variations in the appearance characteristics of the visible areas can advantageously make it possible to recreate natural effects.
[00274] It is advantageously possible to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones in which a first region has a density of visible zones greater than that of a second region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second region is in the periocular area or on the forehead .
[00275] In particular, it is possible to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones in which a first region has a density of visible zones greater than that of a second and third region and the first region is on the cheeks and the second and third regions are in the periocular area and on the forehead, respectively.
43/76 [00276] The visible areas obtained may have a color difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space greater than or equal to 1 and especially 3, in relation to the color of all or part of the cosmetic-based composition deposit.
Description of the figures [00277] The invention can be understood more clearly by examining the attached figures, in which:
1. Figure 1 shows diagrammatically, in cross section, a skin made up by means of a process according to the invention,
2. Figure 2 shows in top view the make-up surface of Figure 1,
3. Figures 1A to 1D and 3 to 5 show examples of surfaces made up according to the invention,
4. Figures 6 and 7 show applicators that can be used in the context of the processes according to the invention,
5. Figure 8 is a representation of the developed surface of an applicator application surface that can be used in the context of the processes according to the invention,
6. Figures 9A and 9B are diagrammatic and partial cross sections of an exemplary embodiment of an applicator application surface that can be used in the context of the invention,
7. Figure 10 is a diagrammatic and partial cross section of an exemplary embodiment of an applicator according to the invention,
8. Figure 11 illustrates, diagrammatically and partially, the production of an applicator that can be used in the context of the processes according to the invention containing a discontinuous islet deposit of corrective composition,
9. Figures 11A, 22A and 22B illustrate processes for manufacturing an example of a cosmetic device according to the invention,
10. Figures 12, 13, 14a and 15 to 21 illustrate variants of makeup processes according to the invention,
44/76
11. Figures 22C to 23C illustrate the various process steps for obtaining make-up surfaces according to the invention, and
12. Figures 24 to 27 illustrate examples of a makeup kit according to the invention.
[00278] In the figures, the actual proportions were not necessarily respected due to concern for the clarity of the figure.
[00279] Figure 1 shows the result of makeup on a P skin obtained after a process according to the invention.
[00280] Skin P is first coated with a cosmetic-based composition 1, that deposit 1 possibly being, as illustrated, continuous (i.e. integral) or, as a variant, distributed discontinuously on the surface of the treated skin P.
[00281] Cosmetic base 1 can be fluid or powdery and, for example, can be applied with your finger or using an applicator (spray, sponge, airbrush, etc.).
[00282] In a second stage, the user applies the corrective composition in order to form a discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 of corrective composition on the skin P.
[00283] In an exemplary modality, the user applies, in a second stage, a makeup product in order to form a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 on the skin P.
[00284] This application is performed, for example, through the devices described in Figures 6 and 7.
[00285] Islets 2 are, in batch 20, separated by a distance d that connects the barycenters of the islets in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean over the number of pairs of adjacent islets 2 constituting the discontinuous deposit 20) that separates two adjacent islets 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.
[00286] When a discontinuous network of visible zones is formed, adjacent visible zones 2 are, in the discontinuous network 20, separated by
45/76 a distance d that connects the barycenters of the visible areas in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean over the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20) that separates two adjacent visible zones 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.
[00287] Figure 2 shows a top view of Figure 1. The islets 2 or visible zones 2 can have different shapes, some islets 2 or visible zones 2 having, for example, a circular shape and other islets 2 or visible zones 2 having a oblong and especially elliptical shape.
[00288] As a variant, all the islets 2 or visible zones 2 that make up the batch 20 or batch 20 may have substantially the same shape.
[00289] Figure 3 shows a variant in which the discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 of corrective composition comprises islets 2 that touch, thus forming an aggregate 21 of islets 2, and islets 2 that are separated.
[00290] Figure 3 can also represent a variant in which the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 comprises visible zones 2 that touch, thus forming an aggregate 21 of visible zones 2, and visible zones 2 that are separated.
[00291] Figure 4 is a cross section of a skin surface P made up according to the invention, covered with a cosmetic base deposit 1 which is covered with a continuous deposit of a product 81, especially of corrective composition 81 comprising visible substances 4. Visible substances 4 can give the product an inhomogeneous appearance.
[00292] In a variant not shown, the product, especially the corrective composition 81, comprising the visible substances 4, is deposited discontinuously in the cosmetic base deposit 1.
46/76 [00293] In a variant not shown, the product, especially the corrective composition, is deposited only in part of the cosmetic-based deposit.
[00294] The visible substances 4 advantageously make it possible to create heterogeneities of relief, making, for example, the appearance of the makeup surface more natural.
[00295] The visible substances 4 have been shown to be fibers; as a variant, other types of particles, such as separate grains or clumps of grains, can be used.
[00296] Figure 5 shows a makeup result according to the invention, in which the discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 comprises a first region 30 and a second region 31. The discontinuous deposit 20 obtained after the makeup processes according to invention may comprise at least 10 and preferably at least 30 islets 2.
[00297] The first region 30 is, as illustrated, located on a cheek and the second region 31 is located in the periocular area.
[00298] The makeup according to the invention shown in Figure 5 shows that the density of islets 2 present in the first region 30 is greater than the density of islets 2 present in the second region 31.
[00299] The density of islets 2 present in the first region 30 is, for example, greater than or equal to twice and especially five times the density of islets 2 present in the second region 31.
[00300] First and second regions can be created, whose islets differ from each other by other characteristics, for example, their color, average size, shape and / or brightness.
[00301] In a variant not shown, the first region 30 is on the cheeks and the second region 31 is on the forehead.
[00302] In an exemplary modality, Figure 5 shows a makeup result according to the invention, in which the network
47/76 discontinuous 20 of visible zones 2 comprises a first region 30 and a second region 31. The discontinuous net 20 obtained after the makeup processes according to the invention can comprise at least 10 and preferably at least 30 visible zones 2.
[00303] The first region 30 is, as illustrated, located on a cheek and the second region 31 is located in the periocular area.
[00304] The makeup according to the invention shown in Figure 5 shows that the density of visible zones 2 present in the first region 30 is greater than the density of visible zones 2 present in the second region 31.
[00305] The density of visible zones 2 present in the first region 30 is, for example, greater than or equal to twice and especially five times the density of visible zones 2 present in the second region 31.
[00306] First and second regions can be created, whose visible zones differ from each other by other characteristics, for example, their color, average size, shape and / or brightness.
[00307] In a variant not shown, the first region 30 is on the cheeks and the second region 31 is on the forehead.
[00308] Figure 1A shows the result of makeup on a skin P obtained after a variant of a process according to the invention.
[00309] Skin P is first coated with a cosmetic-based composition 1, that deposit 1 possibly being, as illustrated, continuous (ie integral) or, as a variant, distributed discontinuously on the surface of treated skin P.
[00310] Cosmetic base 1 can be fluid or powdery and, for example, can be applied with the finger or using an applicator (spray, sponge, airbrush, etc.).
48/76 [00311] In a second stage, the user removes the cosmetic base locally to form a 20A discontinuous network of islets 2A or visible zones 2A on the skin P.
[00312] It is possible, as illustrated, to change the shape of the free surface S of the cosmetic base deposit 1 due to islets 2A or visible zones 2A in the form of depressions resulting in a local decrease in thickness and the cosmetic base deposit 1 .
[00313] The depressions can be obtained by placing the cosmetic base 1 in contact with an adhesive surface or by suction as will be detailed below.
[00314] Islets 2A are, in the discontinuous network 20A, separated by a distance d that connects the barycenters of cosmetic-based zones 200A that are covered with the islets in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean over the number of adjacent islets 2A constituting the discontinuous deposit 20A) that separates two adjacent islets 2A is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.
[00315] As a variant, the adjacent visible zones 2A are, in the discontinuous network 20A, separated by a distance d that connects the barycenters of the cosmetic-based zones 200 that are covered with the visible zones in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean over the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones 2A constituting the discontinuous network 20A) that separates two adjacent visible zones 2A is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.
[00316] Figure 1B shows a variant in which the removal and / or movement of the cosmetic base performed in step b) resulted in the production of a free surface S of the cosmetic base deposit 1 comprising reliefs, such as depressions and / or elevations. As illustrated, the free surface S comprises a succession of depressions and elevations, thus constituting a discontinuous network 20A of islets 2A or a discontinuous network 20A of visible zones 2A.
49/76 [00317] Figure 1C shows an example of makeup according to the invention in which a layer 110 of colored makeup composition was applied to the skin prior to the application of the cosmetic base composition 1.
[00318] Once the cosmetic-based composition layer 1 has been applied, it is possible, by local removal of cosmetic-based 1, to form, in cosmetic-based composition 1, islets 2A or visible zones 2A free of cosmetic-based.
[00319] Such removal can be performed by means of the device of Figure 6, whose pins 42 consist of an absorbent material.
[00320] In a variant not shown, the processes according to the invention make it possible, in the cosmetic base composition 1, to locally lead to the formation of islets or visible zones in the form of depressions as illustrated in Figure 1A.
[00321] The depressions or islets of free zones of cosmetic base advantageously make it possible to locally modify the coverage of the cosmetic base layer and, thus, modify the appearance of the makeup surface due to the presence of the underlying layer of colored makeup.
[00322] Figure 1D shows a makeup result according to the invention in which a chemical reagent present on pins 42 of the device of Figures 6 and 7 was applied to a cosmetic-based deposit
1.
[00323] The chemical reagent applied can react with a compound present in the cosmetic base in order to enable the cosmetic base deposit 1 to change color locally to form the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2.
[00324] The adjacent visible zones 2 are, in the discontinuous network 20, separated by a distance d that connects the barycenters of the visible zones in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean over the number
50/76 pairs of adjacent visible zones 2 that make up the discontinuous network 20) that separates two adjacent visible zones 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.
[00325] Figure 6 shows the device 40 to form a pattern, and especially a discontinuous network of visible zones or a discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2, in the context of the processes according to the invention. In this text, reference will be made indiscriminately to device 40 or applicator 40 when device 40 is used to apply a product to keratin materials optionally containing makeup.
[00326] The device 40 comprises a peripheral surface 41 comprising islets in the form of pins 42 intended to come into contact with a user's skin or, as a variant, with a cosmetic base deposit present thereon. The device 40 is configured in such a way that, during its movement on the keratin materials, a rotational movement in relation to the X axis is imposed on the peripheral surface 41. In the present text, reference will be made indiscriminately to the peripheral surface 41 or to the applicator surface 41 when device 40 is used to apply a product to keratin materials optionally containing makeup.
[00327] In an exemplary embodiment, pins 42 contain a product to be applied to the skin (not shown) and the rotation of the peripheral surface 41 in contact with the made-up keratin materials makes it possible to transfer a discontinuous network of visible zones by transfer.
[00328] In an exemplary embodiment, pins 42 contain a product to be applied to the skin (not shown) and the rotation of the peripheral surface 41 in contact with the made-up keratin materials makes it possible to transfer the discontinuous deposit of islets of composition by transfer corrective.
51/76 [00329] In an exemplary embodiment, pins 42 consist of an absorbent material based on Nylon® tufts comprising a mixture of 200 pm and 10 pm in diameter fibers joined together in a support. The pins 42 make it possible, in this case, during their contact with the cosmetic base composition, to remove the cosmetic base locally in order to obtain the discontinuous islet network or the discontinuous network of visible zones.
[00330] As a variant, the pins make it possible to move the cosmetic base during its contact with it in order to obtain the pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network or visible zones.
[00331] In an exemplary embodiment, pins 42 contain a chemical reagent (not shown) that allows the cosmetic base to change color, for example, dihydroxyacetone, and the rotation of the peripheral surface 41 in contact with the made-up keratin materials allows that said chemical reagent is transferred in order to obtain the discontinuous network of visible zones. In that case, the cosmetic base comprises an amine that can react with dihydroxyacetone to produce the color change.
[00332] An example of a method for manufacturing a device 40 containing pins 42 that can be used in the context of the processes according to the invention will now be described.
[00333] Figure 8 shows a representation of a developed surface of a peripheral surface 41. As illustrated, the peripheral surface 41 comprises islets of circular contour and islets of non-circular contour. That peripheral surface 41 also comprises islets that touch and islets that are separated.
[00334] This developed surface has, for example, dimensions of 30x20 mm.
[00335] Starting from the pattern shown in Figure 8, a 3D file is produced in .STL format using Solidworks® software. The x and y axes,
52/76 in this file, are shown in Figure 8 and the z coordinates are -2 mm for colored zones and 0 mm for white zones.
[00336] Then, starting with this file, an object that will serve as a mold is made, for example, using a 3D printer (Objet 30 from Objet Geometries Ltd).
[00337] A cross-linkable silicone (Silflo) is deposited in the mold so that the entire surface is covered with a thickness of about 2 mm.
[00338] After hardening to a solid, it is removed. The silicone is then bonded on a roll about 1 cm in diameter.
[00339] The roller is equipped with a crank and a rotational shaft, allowing the roller to be rolled without any appreciable friction.
[00340] The roll thus obtained can then be placed in contact with a pad that delivers an adhesive in order to obtain a deposit that has adhesive zones selectively on its pins. These adhesive areas can allow the removal of cosmetic base by placing the device in contact with a cosmetic base deposit applied to the skin in order to obtain a discontinuous islet network.
[00341] Figure 7 shows a modality variant of a device 40 that can be used in the context of the processes according to the invention, comprising a reservoir 43 comprising a product, especially the corrective composition, intended to be applied over a deposit of cosmetic base present on the skin and arranged to distribute this deposit on the pins 42 of the application surface 41 gradually as the applicator 40 moves in contact with the made-up keratin materials.
[00342] The application of the product makes it possible, for example, to move locally the cosmetic base present in the skin in order to form the pattern, and preferably the desired discontinuous network of visible areas.
53/76 [00343] Reservoir 43 comprises, for example, calcium chloride particles, and is arranged to distribute them on pins 42 of surface 41 gradually as the device 40 moves in contact with the made-up keratin materials. Once applied by the device 40 to the cosmetic base deposit, these particles can move the cosmetic base locally to produce the desired pattern and especially the discontinuous islet network.
[00344] In an exemplary mode not shown, the pins are configured to create a discontinuous deposit of islets of corrective composition in shaded colors during the movement of the device. In other words, the pattern obtained using the device produces an optical effect whose intensity varies rigorously monotonously when moving along all or part of the path taken by the device.
[00345] It is also possible to use a device in the form of a plate containing pins and / or absorbent zones and / or holes.
[00346] In an exemplary embodiment, pins 42 can move in relation to the peripheral surface. Pins 42 can be moved by hand, by a magnetic force or by an electromagnetic force, depending on the systems used. The pins 42 can be movable along the peripheral surface 41 and / or they can be extended or retracted in order to create reliefs on said peripheral surface.
[00347] In the latter case, pins 42 can be covered with a thin and elastic surface. Thus, when the pins are extended, elevations emerge on the elastic surface. Figure 9A shows the peripheral surface 41 comprising the pins in the retracted state, and Figure 9B shows the peripheral surface 41 comprising the pins 42 that emerge after application of an electromagnetic force, for example.
[00348] The roller can then serve to capture the corrective composition and then, by transfer, deliver it on the skin by simple pressure.
54/76 [00349] In a particular case, an electrosensitive surface is used (dielectric silicone used in actuators) in a matrix so that that surface contains a drop of liquid, for example, from an oil.
[00350] A plate is produced made of elastomer containing several of these matrices, each having about 2 mm in size and 2 mm distant from its neighbor. Each matrix is electrically connected to an electrical generator that delivers about 500 V. It is possible to choose the matrices that will be electrically charged in order to obtain the desired pattern and, in particular, choose to obtain a random matrix.
[00351] When the electric charge is delivered, the electrosensitive surface of each driven matrix retracts and, thus, pressures the liquid and, consequently, causes the matrix to swell. Dies that have not been electrically driven keep their initial shape flat.
[00352] Such a matrix is described in the publication Millimetre-scale bubblelike dielectric elastomer actuators by Carpi et al., Polymer International (2009), Volume: 59, Edition: 3, Pages: 407-414.
[00353] This matrix can be fixed, for example, by fastening by coupling, on different types of surfaces (rollers, sponges, pads or surfaces having a shape that corresponds to a part of the body) in order to form a cosmetic device that can be used in the context of the present invention.
[00354] This set can then serve to capture the corrective composition and then, by transfer, deliver it on the skin by simple pressure.
[00355] It is understood that, according to a variant not shown, the device may have a peripheral surface equipped with a plurality of holes instead of pins 42, a product, especially the corrective composition, which is distributed through these holes. form the
55/76 obtain the standard, and especially the discontinuous deposit of islets of corrective composition or discontinuous network of desired visible zones.
[00356] In this exemplary embodiment, a honeycomb material, such as a polyurethane foam, can be used. Thus, a foam roller can be made and then part of its surface covered with an impermeable layer containing holes, for example, a smooth plastic crank containing holes.
[00357] Once the crank has holes, product will be transferred in these holes, especially corrective composition, when the roller is pressed on the skin.
[00358] According to another variant not shown, the device comprises, instead of pins 42, a plurality of regions that differ especially by their hydrophilicity. In the last exemplary modality, the corrective composition is selectively present, before application to the make-up surface, in most hydrophilic regions in order to form the discontinuous islet deposit when it is applied.
[00359] The corrective composition can also be selectively placed in the hydrophobic regions. In such an exemplary embodiment, as in the case of offset printing, the hydrophilic regions can be made of aluminum and the hydrophobic regions can be made of copper or a silicone polymer.
[00360] An ink comprising a mixture of water and colored molecules can then be placed on the peripheral surface of the device. The difference in surface tension forces the water to position itself in the hydrophilic regions and the colored molecules in the hydrophobic regions.
[00361] Then, by simple transfer, with or without previous drying, the pattern will be able to be deposited on the skin.
[00362] A device that may or may not be uniformly covered with a dye that is not transferable or moderately transferable when it is dry can also be used. After wetting said
56/76 dye with a suitable solvent, especially with water, a product, especially a corrective composition, which can be transferred onto the made-up keratin materials is obtained.
[00363] Thus, by depositing a solvent in a certain pattern, it is possible to reproduce said pattern by transferring it onto the skin through the deposition of a product, especially the corrective composition.
[00364] It is also possible to use a device with a peripheral surface of uneven roughness or absorbent nature. This example uses two surfaces, one of which is quite smooth and the other noticeably rougher or more absorbent.
[00365] For example, a viscous solution of PSA adhesive polymer is deposited on a roll, in small zones. Then, the roller is passed over a small fiber powder (2 mm long, 20 pm in diameter). Only the adhesive areas retain the fibers.
[00366] When the roller thus treated is placed in contact with a product to be applied, especially the corrective composition, the areas containing small fibers accumulate a large amount of said products, especially the corrective composition, which can be delivered by simple pressure on the skin.
[00367] It is also possible to use a device whose smooth peripheral surface contains discontinuous islets of a product that can transfer onto the skin, especially of corrective composition. The peripheral surface can be made of a moderately adherent material, such as PTFE.
[00368] The adhesion of the product, especially the corrective composition, to the peripheral surface is sufficient for the roller to be able to be manipulated.
57/76 [00369] Upon contact with the skin, the product, especially the corrective composition, is transferred, leaving the roller with less or no product.
[00370] In an exemplary modality, the product islets, especially of corrective composition, originated by the peripheral surface are formed of dry material that is optionally adhesive on at least one of its faces.
[00371] Upon contact with the make-up surface, the adhesion force that is created exceeds the adhesion of the product, especially the corrective composition, to the device, thus causing transfer.
[00372] In another exemplary embodiment, the product, especially the corrective composition, is made up of small fibers (typically 1 mm long by 10 pm in diameter).
[00373] The small fibers are maintained on the peripheral surface of the device by means of electrostatic attraction and / or by the presence of a fluid and / or an adhesive material. It is understood that the device 40 may have, according to a variant not shown, a surface 41 containing pins 42, said pins comprising or consisting of deposits of an adhesive composition. In this case, upon contact of the device 40 with the cosmetic-based deposit, this deposit can be removed locally by the adhesive in order to form the discontinuous islet network.
[00375] When the device comprises a plurality of adhesive zones, the adhesive nature can be restored before each use by contact with a pad that delivers adhesive, especially in a predefined pattern. As a variant, the adhesive nature can be restored after cleaning, for example, by eliminating the previously captured cosmetic-based composition.
[00376] In an exemplary mode not shown, the pins are configured in order to capture the cosmetic-based composition in gradual tones during the movement of the device. In other words, the pattern
58/76 obtained through the capture of cosmetic base produces an optical effect whose intensity varies rigorously monotonously when moving along all or part of the path taken by the device.
[00377] It is understood that, according to a variant not shown, the device 40 may have a suction surface 41 equipped with a plurality of holes instead of pins 42, the cosmetic base being able to be captured by suction through the said orifices when the device 40 is close to, for example, in contact with, the cosmetic base deposit. Suction of the cosmetic base through the holes can make it possible to obtain the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous network of visible zones. In this case, the device can be fixed or mobile in relation to the cosmetic-based deposit.
[00378] According to another variant not shown, the device 40 comprises, instead of pins 42, a plurality of regions that differ especially by their hydrophilicity, for example, a plurality of islets whose hydrophilicity is different from that of the neighboring surface that the fence.
[00379] In the last exemplary modality, the cosmetic base can be selectively captured in most hydrophilic regions in order to obtain the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network.
[00380] As a variant, the product can be selectively present, before application to the makeup surface, in most hydrophilic regions in order to form the desired pattern during its application.
[00381] As a variant, the cosmetic base can be selectively captured in most hydrophobic regions in order to obtain the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network.
[00382] The product can also be selectively placed in hydrophobic regions.
59/76 [00383] In this case, as in the case of offset printing, the hydrophilic regions can be made of aluminum and the hydrophobic regions can be made of copper or a silicone polymer.
[00384] It is also possible to use a device with a surface of uneven roughness or absorbent nature. This example uses two surfaces, one of which is quite smooth and the other noticeably rougher or more absorbent.
[00385] For example, a viscous solution of adhesive polymer PSA is deposited on a roll, in small zones. Then, the roller is passed over a small fiber powder (2 mm long, 20 pm in diameter). Only the adhesive areas retain the fibers.
[00386] When the roll so treated is placed in contact with a cosmetic-based deposit, the areas containing the small fibers capture a large amount of cosmetic-based.
[00387] As a function of the arrangement of the adhesive zones and thus of the fibers, the pattern, and especially the arrangement of the discontinuous islet network, formed on the makeup surface can be imposed.
[00388] It is also possible to use a device in the form of a plate containing a plurality of absorbent zones allowing the cosmetic base to be captured in order to obtain the desired pattern.
[00389] It is also possible to use a device in the form of a plate containing a plurality of holes through which the cosmetic base can be sucked in order to obtain the desired pattern.
[00390] It is also possible to use a device in the form of a plate containing a plurality of pins that makes it possible to move the cosmetic base when the device is placed in contact with the cosmetic base, said movement making it possible to obtain the desired pattern.
[00391] You can use sandpaper or a brush that allows the cosmetic base, by local contact with it, to be captured in order to form the desired pattern.
60/76 [00392] The user can position the device in contact non-uniformly with the cosmetic base deposit in order to obtain the discontinuous islet network.
[00393] Naturally, droplets that locally modify the shape of the free surface can be sprayed through holes to obtain the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network.
[00394] It is also possible to use pad type applicators with movable ends that can change their arrangement randomly. This principle is based on a guide membrane containing holes, which can be flexible or rigid. Small rods are placed in each of the holes. The length of the rods is greater than the thickness of the guide membrane. The system is equipped with a means to prevent the rods from leaving the hole, without preventing the rods from moving. For example, another membrane that blocks the exit of the rods can be placed on the rear face, or alternatively each rod is retained by an elastic zone, or alternatively each rod has one or two tips that limit movement beyond a certain stroke. The movable rods can be moved individually or in a group by simple mechanical pressure, by hydraulic pressure or by electromagnetic or electrostatic force. A system can make it possible to lock the rods so that they do not move during application. This system can use a mechanical force, an electromagnetic force or an electrostatic force, the presence of friction being such that the force upon application is not sufficient to move the rods, or a braking system that is disabled to move the rods and is activated to block them. Finally, a last flexible membrane can be added above the group of rods. In this case, the rods do not come into contact with the skin and push the flexible membrane, giving it pressure reliefs. For example, the guide membrane has a thickness between 1 mm and 1 cm. The rods are, for example, between 2 mm and 2 cm long. The diameters of the rods are,
61/76 example, between 0.3 and 5 mm. The rods may or may not have a circular cross section.
[00395] Figure 10 shows a variant of applicator 40 to apply the cosmetic base composition 1 and the discontinuous islet deposit 2 in a single application action.
[00396] The applicator 40 is moved in relation to the skin surface P to be treated and comprises a first roller 44 comprising on its application surface 45 a layer of powdered cosmetic base 1. The first roller ensures the application of the cosmetic base 1 on a skin P when it is moved in relation to skin P.
[00397] Applicator 40 also comprises a second roller 46 comprising pins 42 on its application surface 41. These pins contain, as illustrated, islets 2 of corrective composition and make it possible to obtain the discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 in the cosmetic base layer 1 gradually as applicator 40 is moved in relation to skin P.
[00398] The device 40 of Figure 10 can also make it possible to apply the cosmetic base composition 1 and form a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 in a single application action.
[00399] The device 40 is moved in relation to the skin surface P to be treated and comprises a first roller 44 comprising on its application surface 45 a layer of powdered cosmetic base 1. The first roller ensures the application of the cosmetic base 1 on a skin P when it is moved in relation to skin P.
[00400] The device 40 also comprises a second roller 46 comprising pins 42 on its peripheral surface 41. These pins contain, as illustrated, deposits 2 of a product and make it possible to obtain a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 in the cosmetic base layer 1 gradually as device 40 is moved relative to skin P.
62/76 [00401] Naturally, in a variant not shown, the device may comprise pins formed from absorbent zones making it possible to capture the cosmetic-based composition locally to form a discontinuous network of visible zones.
[00402] Figure 11 shows a variant of modality to obtain an applicator 40 containing on its application surface 41 a discontinuous deposit of islets 2 of corrective composition.
[00403] Applicator 40 has, for example, a smooth application surface 41 and is, as illustrated, in the form of a roller comprising a crank part 47.
[00404] A stencil 100 comprising holes 101 is, as illustrated, placed in a powdery corrective composition block. The arrangement of the holes 101 is linked to the standard of corrective composition to be obtained.
[00405] Upon contact with stencil 100, the user moves applicator 40 and a set of islets 2 of the corrective composition is thus deposited on the application surface 41.
[00406] Applicator 40 can then apply, on a cosmetic-based deposit, islets 2 of corrective composition in order to obtain a predefined pattern on the makeup surface.
[00407] Figure 11A shows a variant of modality for obtaining a device 40 containing on its peripheral surface 41 a plurality of deposits of adhesive composition 120.
[00408] The device 40 has, for example, a peripheral smooth surface 41 and is, as illustrated, in the form of a roller comprising a crank part 47.
[00409] A stencil 100 comprising holes 101 is, as illustrated, placed in a powdery adhesive composition block 120. The arrangement of holes 101 is attached to the pattern to be obtained.
63/76 [00410] Upon contact with stencil 100, the user moves the device 40 and a plurality of deposits of adhesive composition 120 is thus obtained on the peripheral surface 41.
[00411] The device 40 can then position a cosmetic base deposit in contact with the adhesive composition 120 in order to capture the cosmetic base locally and obtain a predefined pattern on the makeup surface.
[00412] As a variant, as explained above, the adhesive composition block 120 can be replaced by a product block to be applied to keratin materials in order to obtain a device containing, on its peripheral surface, a plurality of islets formed from a product that you can transfer onto a skin.
[00413] Figure 12 shows a screen 50 with holes, consisting of a plate 51 comprising holes 52.
[00414] The arrangement of the holes 52 corresponds to a pattern to be reproduced, especially an arrangement of freckles to be reproduced on the makeup surface.
[00415] Figure 13 illustrates the use of a process according to the invention, in which a screen 50 with holes is placed against a deposit of cosmetic-based composition 1. A sprayer 60 is brought to the screen 50 and sprays the corrective composition through the holes 52 to form a discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 of corrective composition.
[00416] As a variant, the corrective composition can be sprayed directly on a skin in order to form a discontinuous deposit of islets of corrective composition or applied in a spatially non-uniform manner by the user.
[00417] A discontinuous islet deposit of corrective composition can also be formed directly using an inkjet printer. The printing devices described in FR 2 933 582 can generally be used.
64/76 [00418] Figures 14a and 14b illustrate another means that can be used to spray corrective composition 81 in the form of droplets on the cosmetic base deposit.
[00419] As illustrated in Figure 14a, a brush 90 is used comprising a support 92 to which flexible bristles 91 are attached. A toothed brush is used, for example. Bristles 91 contain corrective composition 81. These bristles 91 are tightened as shown in Figure 14a.
[00420] The bristles 91 are then released and return to their equilibrium position as illustrated in Figure 14b; in doing so, the corrective composition 81 is sprayed in the form of droplets on the surface to be treated.
[00421] Figure 15 shows the application, in a first stage, of a continuous deposit 70 of corrective composition. As illustrated in Figure 16, the corrective composition is configured to form a discontinuous deposit 20 of islets 2 after being applied to the cosmetic base composition 1 by means of a surface tension phenomenon.
[00422] Figures 17 and 18 illustrate a modality of step b) according to the invention, resulting in movement of the cosmetic base due to material spraying.
[00423] In that case, a nozzle 210 for spraying a powdery composition comprising particles 211 is brought to the cosmetic base deposit 1. The particles 211 are sprayed onto the cosmetic base composition 1 and, upon impact, produce a relief variation of the free surface S of the cosmetic base 1 as illustrated in Figure 18. This relief variation makes it possible to obtain the desired discontinuous network 20A of islets 2A.
[00424] As a variant, Figure 18 shows a makeup result according to the invention, in which particles 211 were dispensed on the cosmetic base layer 1 by a device such as
65/76 shown in Figure 7. In this case, the pins locally move the cosmetic base and thus produce a change in the shape of the free surface S of the cosmetic base tank 1 in order to form, as illustrated, a discontinuous network 20A of visible zones 2A, the pins also making it possible to move particles that are initially present in the reservoir 43.
[00425] Naturally, as a variant, a medium in liquid form can be sprayed to obtain a variation of relief due to the impact of drops on the cosmetic base.
[00426] As a variant, a solvent that is capable of dissolving the cosmetic base composition can be sprayed to specially move said cosmetic base and to produce the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous islet network.
[00427] In a variant not shown, the cosmetic base can be moved by spraying with compressed air.
[00428] Figures 19 and 20 show a variant of modality in which a plate 50 comprising holes 52 is placed against a cosmetic base deposit 1.
[00429] A suction system 220 comprising a crank part 221 and a suction zone 222 is placed close to the cosmetic base tank 1 so that the plate 50 containing holes is interspersed between the cosmetic base 1 and the suction system 220 .
[00430] Then, as shown in Figure 19, the user starts the suction. Suction will occur mainly in the cosmetic base areas aligned with the holes and the suction system. Thus, it will be possible to capture locally the cosmetic base composition 1 by suction in order to obtain the desired discontinuous network 20A of islets 2A.
[00431] As a variant, a stencil can be applied to the cosmetic-based composition deposit and a pad comprising an absorbent composition, then applied over that
66/76 stencil, the cosmetic base being captured by the absorbent composition through the holes in the stencil. The pattern then obtained in the cosmetic-based composition is linked to the arrangement of the holes in the stencil.
[00432] Figure 21 shows a screen 50 with holes, consisting of a plate 51 comprising holes 52.
[00433] The arrangement of the holes 52 corresponds to a pattern to be reproduced, especially an arrangement of freckles to be reproduced on the makeup surface.
[00434] Figure 21 illustrates the use of a process according to the invention, in which a screen 50 with holes is placed against a deposit of cosmetic-based composition 1. A nozzle 210 for spraying particles 211 is brought up to screen 50 and sprays said particles through the holes 52. Upon impact with the cosmetic base 1, the particles 211 modify the shape of the free surface S of the cosmetic base tank 1 in order to form, as illustrated, a discontinuous network 20A of islets 2A.
[00435] Figures 22A to 22D show different steps of a process according to the invention. A sprayer 122 is brought to a support 123 and sprays droplets 121 of a compound adhesive dissolved in a solvent thereon.
[00436] After the solvent has dried, the support shown in Figure 22B is obtained, which comprises a plurality of deposits of an adhesive composition 120. That support constitutes an example of a device 40 according to the invention comprising a peripheral surface 41 in which islets are arranged, taking the form here of deposits of adhesive composition 120.
[00437] The support of Figure 22B is placed in contact with a cosmetic base deposit 1 as shown in Figure 22C. A change in the shape of the free surface S of the cosmetic base 1 is thus
67/76 obtained due to the local capture of the cosmetic base by deposits of adhesive composition.
[00438] A discontinuous network 20A of visible zones 2A whose arrangement is connected to the arrangement of the adhesive composition deposits 120 in the support 123 and which makes it possible, for example, to reproduce the appearance of freckles can thus be obtained.
[00439] As a variant, droplets of a compound of solids dissolved in high concentration in a solvent are sprayed onto a support. Then, after the solvent has dried, the solid compound present in the support is placed in contact with the cosmetic base. The deposits of solid compost allow the movement of small portions of material, thus creating the desired pattern, and especially the desired discontinuous network of visible zones.
[00440] The purpose of Figures 23A to 23C is especially to show that the application of a product by the devices according to the invention can be performed before applying a cosmetic based composition to the skin.
[00441] Figure 23A shows the deposition on a plurality of skin P regions of a chemical reagent 300. This deposition can be performed, for example, by means of the device 40 shown in Figure 6 or 7.
[00442] The cosmetic-based composition 1 is then, as shown in Figure 23B, applied to skin P in order to be placed in contact with chemical reagent 300.
[00443] Figure 23C shows diagrammatically the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 obtained after reaction of chemical reagent 300 with a compound present in the cosmetic base 1.
[00444] Figure 24 shows a makeup kit according to the invention, comprising, in separate conditioning units:
a powdery cosmetic-based composition 1,
68/76 a particulate corrective composition 81, an applicator 40 comprising an application surface 41 containing pins 42 for applying the corrective composition to a cosmetic base deposit, a screen 50 consisting of a plate 51 with holes 52, the arrangement of the holes reproducing , for example, a freckle pattern to be obtained, and a spray 60 to apply a corrective composition in the form of droplets on a cosmetic-based deposit 1.
[00445] As a variant, a makeup kit according to the invention comprises, in separate conditioning units:
a powdery cosmetic base composition 1, a device 40 comprising a surface 41 containing pins 42 for moving and / or capturing a cosmetic base present on the skin, a screen 50 consisting of a plate 51 with holes 52, the arrangement of the holes reproducing, for example , a freckle pattern to be obtained, and a spray system 60 for applying material, especially droplets, on a cosmetic base in order to move the latter locally.
[00446] Figure 25 shows a makeup kit according to the invention comprising a corrective composition sprayer 60 and a set of screens 50 containing holes, in which the arrangement of the holes 52 is connected to a corrective composition pattern to be obtained.
[00447] The various screens 50 present in this set differ in the arrangement of the holes 52.
[00448] Thus, the user can choose a corrective composition pattern to be obtained, for example, a predefined pattern of freckles, choosing a screen 50 instead of another.
[00449] The invention thus makes it possible to personalize the makeup.
69/76 [00450] Figures 26 and 27 show a set 80 according to the invention comprising a plurality of devices 40 and also a cosmetic based product 1 to be applied with the aid of these devices 40. The devices 40 differ in the arrangement of the pins 42 on the peripheral surface 41. Thus, each device allows the production of a different pattern on a make-up skin surface.
[00451] Before performing the process according to the invention, the user can choose a device from within this set 80, which allows him to choose to produce a predefined pattern.
Examples
Example 1 [00452] A first cosmetic base with a lot of coverage (Dermablend Professional, light color) is applied first. At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but appearance cannot be considered to be natural.
[00453] A roller is then used as described in Figure 6. Small spots of brown cosmetic base (Infaillible dark tint) about 1 mm wide are placed on the pins.
[00454] The roller is then rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. Transfer of the small spots is obtained, producing a natural effect.
[00455] At the end of the treatment, the color differences are attenuated slightly by tapping lightly with a cotton wool pad or using a brush.
Example 2 [00456] An application session aimed at evaluating the effects of a base comprising small colored fibers superimposed on a cosmetic base with plenty of coverage was performed.
70/76 [00457] Although a cosmetic base with coverage makes it possible to obtain very efficient disguise of dyschromia, this cosmetic base has the effect of making the complexion dull and unnatural.
[00458] Tinted creams comprising small colored 5 fibers were applied over a cosmetic base layer with coverage. The compositions of these tinted creams are given below.
Tinted cream1 Tinted cream 2 0.1 mm to 0.75 mm red cellulose fibers (Rayon) from Claremont Flock 60.1 mm to 0.75 mm brown cellulose fibers (Rayon) from Claremont Flock6 Partially neutralized polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid with highly cross-linked aqueous ammonia (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) 1 1 PDMS 10 cSt (Silicone FluidXiameter PMX-200 10 CS from DowCorning) 11 11 PEG-12 dimethicone (Silsoft 880 fromMomentive Performance Materials) 0.7 0.7 Alcohol 8 8 Water qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 7 7 Propylene glycol 2 2
71/76
Preservative agent 0.4 0.4
[00459] When applied on different cosmetic bases (Vichy Normaderm Teint, Dermablend Nude, Dermablend Professional), the tinted creams optimize the homogeneity of the film, especially with respect to the color result.
[00460] They produce better melting of the tinted film of these various makeup products on the skin, giving a more natural, less heavy makeup result.
Example 3: Example with a corrective composition in fluid form during its application and comprising a volatile solvent [00461] A cosmetic base is applied to the skin and the layer is allowed to rest for a few minutes. A composition formed from dimethyl ether (60%), water (20%), ethanol (18%) and a brown dye (caramel) (2%) is then sprayed.
[00462] Evaporation leaves small beige islets visible through the cosmetic base layer.
Example 4: Example with a discontinuous islet deposit obtained by means of a surface tension phenomenon [00463] A cosmetic base in which perfluoropolyether particles (Fomblin) were introduced is applied. The whole covers the skin evenly. Then, an aqueous fluid composition containing a brown (caramel) dye (2%) is sprayed. After a few seconds, the aqueous composition evaporates, leaving small beige islets in the coating formed by the cosmetic base.
Example 5: Example with a discontinuous islet deposit obtained by applying an electric and / or magnetic field and / or a positive pressure after applying the corrective composition [00464] Iron filings (grains 0.1 mm on average) is incorporated in a cosmetic base at a rate of 1 g per 100 g of composition.
72/76 [00465] Then, after application to the face, the same cosmetic base is applied as a coating on the cheek surface. Leave makeup on for about 5 minutes. Then, a 1.4 cm diameter rare-earth metal magnet that generates a 1.1 Tesla force magnetic field is placed 4 cm from the skin. After a few seconds, the magnet is removed. The magnetic field moves the particles slightly, causing them to appear especially in the center of the cheek.
Example 6 [00466] A first water based cosmetic base coat is applied. At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but the appearance is not natural.
[00467] Then, a roller is used as described in Figure 6 (3 cm in diameter). The pins are capable of depositing magnesia particles. Each particle is about 1 mm in size. The roller is rolled on a bed of magnesia. The roller is then rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. A transfer of small spots is achieved, producing a natural effect.
[00468] In one particular option, the system contains a magnesia powder dispenser as shown in Figure 7.
Example 7 [00469] The makeup obtained in Example 6 is tapped lightly with a brush to capture or remove material in the areas where the magnesia has been deposited.
Example 8 [00470] A makeup is produced according to Example 6. The nozzle of a cordless vacuum cleaner model Dyson DC30 is then placed 2 cm from the makeup container produced. This vacuum cleaner develops a power of about 300 W.
73/76 [00471] Local removal of material in the areas where the magnesia was deposited is then produced, by suction.
Example 9 [00472] A powdered cosmetic base (Accord parfait de LOréal Paris) is applied. Four layers are successively applied to create a thick layer.
[00473] At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but the appearance is not very natural.
[00474] Then, the roller described in Figure 6 (3 cm in diameter) is used. The pins are made of an absorbent material based on Nylon® tufts comprising a mixture of 200 µm fibers and 10 pm in diameter joined in a support. Each pin is 5 mm long and has a tip diameter of 1 mm.
[00475] The roller is rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. The cosmetic base is then removed locally to produce a natural effect.
[00476] Before reusing the roller to treat another area of the face, it is cleaned.
Example 10 [00477] A tool formed from a 16-hole drilled platform is produced. 16 rods pass through the holes, and are driven by a motor and a set of gears.
[00478] Thus, when the frontal face is observed, 16 rods are seen, projecting one millimeter above the platform.
[00479] A tufted disk with 1 mm in size is attached to each stem.
[00480] A thick cosmetic base layer is applied.
[00481] The platform is brought to the skin for a second and the makeup is very lightly beaten. The creation of small grains that enhance the makeup is observed.
74/76
Example 11 [00482] A fully lipophilic cosmetic base is applied. It is a mixture of PDMS silicone (44%), volatile silicone (D5) (26%) and white and brown pigments.
[00483] A device formed from a chamber, connected on one side to an inlet of compressed air and on the other side to a concave membrane (in the shape of the cheek) drilled with 61 holes, each 0.3 mm in diameter , is presented. The membrane is firmly attached to the chamber and has an area of 16 cm ² .
[00484] After applying the cosmetic base, the user brings the device (side of the membrane) to about% cm of the skin and applies a jet of compressed air (2 bar) for 1 sec.
[00485] He then removes the device and applies a low pressure current (0.5 bar) to a greater distance (3 cm) to gently color the skin.
[00486] After final drying, it is seen that the layer has small grains.
Example 12 [00487] Granulated citric acid powder is placed in the same device as above. Each grain is about 0.3 mm in size.
[00488] These grains are sprayed on skin covered with an emulsion-based cosmetic base.
Example 13 [00489] Acetone is placed on the same device as above.
[00490] Acetone is sprayed on skin covered with a cosmetic base based on acrylate polymer (Resin 28-2930 from Akzo Nobel) and in pigment.
Example 14 [00491] A cosmetic base based on emulsion and ferrite grains (8%) is produced.
75/76 [00492] A rare-earth 1.1 Tesla metal magnet is broken into pieces with a hammer.
[00493] The small pieces of magnet (about 1 mm each) are bonded using Araldite® glue over a 16 cm ² solid membrane.
[00494] After applying the cosmetic base and before total drying, the membrane is placed over the skin. After 1 second, the membrane is removed. Grains are observed in the coating.
Example 15 [00495] A first water-based cosmetic base coat is applied. At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but the appearance is not natural.
[00496] Then, a roller as shown in Figure 7 (3 cm in diameter) is used. The reservoir placed in contact with the roller pins is a small metal chest (aluminum) 5 cm wide, 5 cm long and 1 cm deep. It contains a lipstick formulation. The small metal chest also comprises a small piston that can be actuated manually to advance the lipstick formulation towards the outlet to ensure contact with the pins during use. The pins are able to create negative pressure on the cosmetic base and to deposit color stains. Each particle is about 1 mm in size. The roller is rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. A transfer of small spots is obtained, producing a natural effect.
Example 16 [00497] A first cosmetic base with a lot of coverage is applied.
[00498] At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but the appearance is not natural.
[00499] Then, a roller as shown in Figure 6 (3 cm in diameter) is used. The pins are made of an absorbent material, using cardboard finely cut into small cylindrical sticks. Each pin has
76/76 mm high and has a diameter of 1 mm at its tip and base. Upon contact, the pins absorb some of the cosmetic base.
[00500] The roller is rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. The cosmetic base is then removed locally to produce a natural effect.
[00501] Before reusing the roller to treat another area of the face, it is cleaned.
Example 17 [00502] A first cosmetic base with a lot of coverage is applied. It contains polyvinylamine (BASF Lupamine®) in a 4% proportion of active material.
[00503] At this stage, irregularities are hidden, but the appearance is not natural.
[00504] Then, a roller as shown in Figure 6 is used. The tips are made of an absorbent material. DHA is deposited on the ends. The roller is rolled over the skin on the cheeks and forehead. Small spots are obtained, producing a natural effect.
[00505] Features described within illustrated variants can be combined with non-illustrated variants.
[00506] The expression comprising one / one must be understood as comprising at least one / one.
[00507] The expressions between or ranging from ... to ... should be understood as including the limits.

权利要求:
Claims (26)
[1]
1. Set (80), characterized by the fact that it comprises a cosmetic device (40) and a makeup product (20) intended to be applied to the skin (P) by means of said device (40), the makeup product ( 20) comprising a red dye, the cosmetic device (40) having a peripheral surface (41) comprising islets (42; 120) arranged non-uniformly on a surrounding surface, said islets (42; 120) each having a dimension greater than at least 0.8 mm and having a shape and / or properties to capture a product present on the skin and / or release a makeup product that are different from the shape and / or properties of the surrounding surface, in order to lead to creation , on the skin, of a pattern whose appearance is linked to the arrangement of the islets (42; 120) on the surface.
[2]
2. Set (80), according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the islets (42; 120) are in relief and protruding from the surrounding surface.
[3]
3. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized by the fact that the islets (42; 120) have different physical and chemical properties from those of the surrounding surface, the so-called islets (42; 120), preferably, having properties to capture and / or release a product present on the skin or to be applied to it that are different from the shape and / or properties of the surrounding surface.
[4]
4. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that the islets (42) are defined with the aid of pins (42) that can be moved in relation to the surrounding surface, the said movable pins (42) being defined in particular by electrically driven actuators.
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 14/20
2/6
[5]
5. Set (80), according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the fact that the islets are defined by grains of a product that can be transferred to the skin.
[6]
6. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by the fact that the islets are defined by a liquid.
[7]
7. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by the fact that it comprises islets (42; 120) having a dimension greater than or equal to 2 mm, in particular, greater than or equal to 3 mm .
[8]
8. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by the fact that it comprises, at the same time, islets (42; 120) having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm, islets ( 42; 120) having a dimension greater than 2 mm and less than or equal to 3 mm and islets (42; 120) having a dimension greater than 3 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm.
[9]
9. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by the fact that the number of islets (42; 120) having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm is greater than the number of islets (42; 120) having a dimension greater than 2 mm and less than or equal to 3 mm and greater than the number of islets (42; 120) having a dimension greater than 3 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm.
[10]
10. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises islets (42; 120) with a circular contour.
[11]
11. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it comprises islets (42; 120) that touch and islets (42; 120) that are separated.
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 15/20
3/6
[12]
12. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized by the fact that it comprises islets (42; 120) of non-circular contour.
[13]
13. Set (80) according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized by the fact that it comprises islets (42; 120) of circular contour in a greater number than that of the islets (42; 120) of contour not circular.
[14]
14. Set (80) according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized by the fact that it comprises adjacent islets (42; 120), the spacing (d) between which is greater than or equal to 2 mm.
[15]
15. Kit (80), characterized by the fact that it comprises a device (40) of an assembly (80) as defined in any of claims 1 to 14 and a master surface for creating islets on the surface, especially a master surface having some areas loaded with product and others without product.
[16]
16. Process to make up the skin (P), characterized by the fact that it comprises a step of moving and / or capturing a product present on the skin (P) and / or a step of applying a product to the skin (P) by means of a device (40) of an assembly (80), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14, for creating visible zones (2), the distribution of which corresponds to that of the islets (42; 120) on the peripheral surface (41).
[17]
17. Process according to claim 16, characterized by the fact that the visible zones (2) are created by applying a product to the skin (P), said product preferably comprising a red dye.
[18]
18. Process according to claim 17, characterized by the fact that the visible zones (2) are created by removing product on the skin (P).
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 16/20
4/6
[19]
19. Process according to any one of claims 16 to 18, characterized by the fact that it comprises the prior application to the skin (P) of a cosmetic base (1), the visible zones (2) being created in the base tank cosmetic (1).
[20]
20. Process according to any of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the treatment using the device (40) is performed without sliding the peripheral surface (41) over the optionally made-up skin (P), preferably by peripheral surface bearing (41) on the optionally made-up skin (P).
[21]
21. Process according to any of claims 16 to 20, characterized by the fact that a discontinuous network (20) of visible zones (2) is created.
[22]
22. Process for making up the skin (P), characterized by the fact that it comprises the step of forming, in a deposit of a cosmetic base composition (1) applied to the skin (P), a discontinuous deposit (20) of islets (2) of corrective composition and / or a deposit of corrective composition (81) comprising visible substances (4) that give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said corrective composition comprising a red dye and having optical properties that locally modify the appearance of makeup in order to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of raised skin and / or heterogeneity of colors.
[23]
23. Kit (80), especially for performing the process as defined in claim 22, characterized by the fact that it comprises:
a) a cosmetic-based composition (1), and
b) a corrective composition (81), the corrective composition (81) comprising a red dye, and
c) an applicator (40) for the application of said corrective composition (81) on a surface to be made up,
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 17/20
5/6 especially on a deposit of the cosmetic-based composition (1), and
d) optionally, a screen (50) with holes, the applicator (40) comprising an application surface (41) comprising a network of zones (42) having corrective composition release properties, which is configured to form, during application on the surface to be made up, especially the cosmetic-based composition (1), a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin color and / or relief heterogeneities, and / or the applicator (60) making it possible to spray the corrective composition evenly to form the discontinuous deposit (20) of islets (2), and / or the arrangement of the holes (52) in said screen (50) being linked to a pattern that reproduces the appearance of the skin color and / or relief heterogeneities a obtained.
[24]
24. Kit (80), especially for performing the process as defined in claim 22, characterized by the fact that it comprises:
a) a cosmetic-based composition (1), and
b) a corrective composition (81) comprising a red dye, the corrective composition comprising visible substances (4) that give it an inhomogeneous appearance, said visible substances (4) preferably being colored fibers.
[25]
25. Process for makeup the skin (P), characterized by the fact that it comprises the steps consisting of:
a) apply a cosmetic-based composition (1) to the skin (P), and
b) remove and / or move locally the cosmetic base (1) applied in step a) in order to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin relief and / or heterogeneity of colors.
Petition 870190033405, of 8/8/2019, p. 18/20
6/6
[26]
26. Kit (80), especially for performing the process as defined in claim 25, characterized by the fact that it comprises:
a) a cosmetic-based composition (1), and
B) a device (40) for removing and / or moving locally the cosmetic base (1) deposited on the skin, and
c) optionally, a screen (50) with holes, and
d) optionally, a system (210) for spraying material, the device (40) comprising a surface (41)
10 comprising a network of zones (42) for removing and / or moving the cosmetic base (1) in order to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of skin color and / or relief heterogeneities, and / or the spray system (210 ) to spray material (211) on the cosmetic base (1) in order to locally remove the cosmetic base and form said pattern 15, and / or the arrangement of the holes (52) in said screen (50) being connected to a pattern that reproduces the appearance of the skin color and / or relief heterogeneities to be obtained.

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法律状态:
2018-06-05| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according [chapter 6.6 patent gazette]|

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2019-01-08| B07A| Application suspended after technical examination (opinion) [chapter 7.1 patent gazette]|

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2019-07-23| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1162384A|FR2984697B1|2011-12-23|2011-12-23|DEVICE FOR CREATING SKIN GRAIN AND CORRESPONDING METHOD|

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FR1162430|2011-12-23|

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FR1162430A|FR2984728B1|2011-12-23|2011-12-23|SKIN MAKE-UP|

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FR1162377A|FR2984726B1|2011-12-23|2011-12-23|MAKE-UP PROCESS|

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FR1162377|2011-12-23|

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FR1162384|2011-12-23|

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PCT/IB2012/057639|WO2013093889A2|2011-12-23|2012-12-21|Makeup process|

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